I accepted the mission, and the boys in Milwaukee were brave enough to give-er, I mean lend-me a fresh-off-the-line '08 Road King Classic 105th Anniversary Edition (why the corporate guys at Harley-Davidson let me even jangle the keys to such a sweet rig is a mystery). Roadside attractions, old tourist traps and greasy diners were my initial targets on the tour. However, by trip's end I actually felt enlightened. Certainly I was wowed by the sight of Cadillacs growing out of a field and the experience of sleeping in a cement wigwam, but it wasn't those points or even the sound of floorboards skidding across fresh asphalt on a plush bagger that had me recalling the ride. It was the people, like the fat, naked alligator wrestler in Missouri and the guy I met in Oklahoma who's walking across America, who have made me appreciate this trek. Riding solo forces you to talk to folks, upping your chances of meeting some great characters.