If there’s a healthy sense of skepticism in Happy Camp, it’s also a good place to fuel up and check provisions, because from here, you’re going to get higher. And I don’t mean from the local crop; at Happy Camp, the State of Jefferson Scenic Byway leaves Highway 96 and heads north to climb Grayback Mountain. The Forest Lodge Motel is booked solid, so I turn onto Indian Creek Road and begin the eight-mile ascent up Grayback. The pavement’s in good shape, but it gradually becomes twistier, somewhat trickier, and markedly colder as I climb. It’s 40 miles of nothingness, occasionally punctuated with ominous signs like, “End of County Maintained Road,” and, “Snow Not Removed Past This Point.” Sure enough, I come upon increasing quantities of the white stuff piled among the stands of cedar and spruce. At the 5,000-foot summit near the Oregon border, a turnout offers views of the Klamath River Valley, but I’m more interested in finding my winter gloves—plus, the view is obscured by clouds. The descent down Grayback’s northern flank is a series of killer bends, but with snow and pine needle slop in some corners and steep dropoffs along the others, I keep my throttle hand in check.