Situated along historic Highway 61 and just north of Highway 90 on the Mississippi River, Winona was our stepping-off point into Bluff Country. Hanna led us away from the four lanes of 61 and onto Highway 43 south to Rushford, Minnesota. Rushford is a shambling little town sitting on the banks of the Root River, a popular canoeing, trout fishing and bicycling destination. The burg features historic limestone buildings and used to be home to the Ernie Tuff Museum, which is Ernie Tuff's collection of everything from 1950s stock cars to dog-powered washing machines. The museum is now closed ("Shut down by the county," Tuff said. "They said I can sue 'em, so I'm gonna."), so our stop in Rushford was for nothing more than a tank of gas and a bottle of water.