At the Majestic, guests stroll coolly from their rooms to spa appointments in robes and slippers under the soft light of enormous chandeliers. The original wood-paneled elevators are creaky and cantankerous, and moody melodies from a vintage piano seep out of the bar area. There's a clean, musty odor, an effect of piping in steaming thermal water for more than a century. Not only is the atmosphere of the Majestic nostalgic, so are the rates. I always ask for a room in the "modern" (circa 1963) Lanai Tower wing facing the historic district and Bathhouse Row.