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"When Did it Turn into a Freaking Fashion Show?"A good friend of mine works down at the local BMW/Ducati/MV Augusta dealership. As you may have guessed from the brands they carry, this is no ordinary, greasy-floored shop. It's one of those upscale joints that cater to what we working stiffs might call the financially comfortable, or maybe less charitably, RUBs (Rich Urban Bikers). I drop in from time to time to catch up with my buddy and because it's always fun to see how the other half lives. Besides, there's generally some interesting machinery inside, even though it's usually priced far beyond my means.

On my last visit to this bastion of conspicuous consumerism, I noticed a well-worn, mid-'70s, airhead BMW parked on the lift. Finding the old crock there wasn't a huge surprise; the shop does a fair amount of work on vintage bikes, particularly those flying the blue-and-white roundel. But what caught my attention was a sticker on one side cover that read: "When did it turn into a freaking fashion show?" Actually, it didn't say "freaking," but that's close enough for this magazine.

My reaction was to agree with the sentiments of the sticker, at least at first glance. But the more I thought about it, the more I began to appreciate how off base it was. For starters, I thought the sticker, though entertaining in a curmudgeonly sort of way, was disingenuous. After all, isn't a sticker commenting on fashion a fashion statement of its own?

To my way of thinking, fashion has always been part of the American motorcycle experience. At least it's been that way since the Model T Ford came along. The Tin Lizzie was cheap, reliable and able to haul a lot more than any motorcycle. It revolutionized the way Americans lived and traveled, and because it was so much better as a "sensible" form of transportation, it soon began to displace motorcycles from that role.

By the 1930s motorcycles in the U.S. were transitioning, at least in the public's mind, from utilitarian devices to ones with more sporting pretensions. Since then, motorcycles here have generally been considered more of a plaything than a practical device.Now, you can dispute the point all you want, but I think history is on my side. Just for fun I dug up an old motorcycle-accessories catalog from the 1920s. Among the ads for practical items like the Mesinger sprung-leaf saddle or universal reed-bodied sidecar (finished in Baronial stain, shellacked and varnished) were the same sort of geegaws and gimcracks we buy today. For instance, there was the S-C-R-E-A-M motorcycle whistle, "which will surely attract attention when attached to your exhaust." Or for the sartorially conscious, Halco leggings offered "over 150 styles available in either leather or canvas." Later catalogs list things like handlebar streamers, cat's-eye studs to insert in your seat or saddlebags and, of course, the ever-popular riding cap, complete with chinstrap and winged-wheel emblem. I'm also particularly fond of manufacturers' ads of the era (especially from Harley-Davidson) that portrayed smiling riders dressed in riding breeches, boots and neckties. If those weren't fashion statements, I don't know what is.I'm not really sure what had the Beemer pilot's knickers in a twist. Certainly the current crop of riders is better dressed and rides more exotic bikes than it did when his airhead was new. But that doesn't make them bad people, does it? When I started riding, most bikes needed major overhauls every 40,000 miles, helmets were open-faced and of dubious quality, and good riding gear was practically nonexistent. What dedicated clothing was available was basically limited to leather or waxed cotton (like the Model T, available in any color you wanted so long as it was black).

It wasn't much of a fashion show back then, though I'll admit that on occasion it was certainly a dog and pony show. Was it fun? Hell yes. Do I want to go back there on a full-time basis? Absolutely not.

I suppose that some people are attracted to motorcycles for what you or I consider to be the wrong motives. But my fervent hope is that while they may have come to the party for the costume or for the ego boost, they'll stay once they discover how much fun we're all having. Besides, who really cares? If someone has enough dough to indulge his every motorcycling fancy, more power to him. There's no law that says you have to buy into it or even be cordial to someone if you don't like it.

The bottom line is that everyone rides for their own reasons. In some cases, yes, it's to make a fashion statement. Now if that's your only reason for riding, I feel sorry for you. We all know there's more to it than that. But c'mon, tell the truth, how many of you can honestly say you can ride past a plate-glass window without admiring your own reflection?

Q&AIt; PullsQ I have a '99 Nomad and do almost all of the work on it, including tire changes. It's fun, and I can save my hard-earned dollars. When changing tires I like to use the liquid balance. I've tried weights, but always end up with the front end bouncing and wobbling at higher speeds. My last two front tires have worn more on one side than the other. The bike goes straight when I take my hands off the bars, but starts to wobble just a tad, which tells me that the tire is not perfectly balanced. Tell me, should I spend the extra cash to have it done professionally, or is it possible to do it myself and get it right? Scott M.Via e-mail

A The short answer is that all tires wear more on one side than the other-it's perfectly normal. Understand that this type of tire wear, technically called scuffing, isn't influenced in any way by balance, so if you're having good results with a liquid-tire balancer, then by all means keep using it. The wobble may be caused by loose steering-head bearings, accessories that affect weight distribution, tire wear or, as you suggested, a slightly out-of-balance front wheel as well as numerous other mechanical issues. But as I say, that and the scuffing are two separate issues.

For the sake of argument we'll assume your bike is in perfect mechanical trim-both wheels properly aligned and so forth. So why does the tire wear more to one side? Even though you didn't state which side of the tire wears fastest, I'll guess it's the left side (if it isn't, then either you've got wheel-alignment problems or you live in England). There are two schools of thought as to why the left side wears fastest.

School A says it's because in the U.S., we drive on the right-hand side of the road, and since the majority of roads here are crowned, tires wear faster working against that slope. There's a ring of truth to that, though usually the crown is so slight it's hard to imagine it could scuff a tire badly. In fact, the scuffed area of the tire doesn't contact the road until the bike's tilted considerably. In my opinion this explanation is a case of right church, wrong pew.

School B also says the reason is because we drive on the right. But it's not the crown that wears the tire; it's the fact that left-hand turns have a larger radius than right-hand turns. Because left-hand turns are longer in length and can be taken at faster speeds than right-handers, it means the left side of the tire gets used harder and more often than the right, thus wearing it quicker. Of course if you live in England or Singapore, the situation is reversed. That's the explanation I accept.

Toothsome ProblemQ I have an '02 VN 800 with 19,000 sweet miles on it. I'm interested in reducing the rpm at highway speeds and have found some options, but I am unsure which one to take. As you know, it has a stock gearing of a 17-tooth counter shaft sprocket and a 42-tooth driven sprocket (2.47:1). I have located a 38-tooth driven sprocket. My questions are: If I change my 42-tooth to a 38-tooth, will it cause excess lugging on the engine or wear out the clutch too soon, or would this be an insignificant change that would create no noticeable rpm drop? The only dealers around here either admit they have no idea or respond by trying to sell me a new bike.Reagon RichBurleson, TXVia e-mail

A A four-tooth drop at the rear sprocket is a roughly 10 percent difference. Although the speed will increase by a corresponding amount (assuming the bike reaches redline), the engine will be lower on the torque curve for a given mph. So dropping four teeth might be a little steep, although a lot of it depends on the type of riding you do down there in Burleson. If it were my bike, I'd run a 39- (8 percent drop in rpm and a corresponding increase in speed) or 40-tooth (5 percent drop) rear. Or better yet, see if you can find an 18-tooth countershaft sprocket. Not only will it be cheaper to install, but it also splits the difference between the 39- and 40-tooth sprockets by changing the ratio by 6 percent. You should find it easier to install, and it shouldn't require more than a chain adjustment to make it fit, whereas altering the rear sprocket by more than two teeth usually means a new chain is in order.

The quick rule of thumb is that a one-tooth change in a counter-shaft sprocket equals 2.5 teeth at the rear. Bottom line-start with either the 18-tooth CS or the 40-tooth final drive. That should make for more relaxed cruising without straining either the clutch or your nerves. You can always go up or down a tooth to fine-tune it.

Under Pressure (ized)Q Your columns are a great help to me-and to our H.O.G. chapter here in Mendocino County.

I have a 2005 Harley-Davidson Softail Standard that I bought used. The front tire that came with the bike is an Avon from England. I have always kept the front tire pressure at 31 psi, as recommended in my owner's manual. The tire has 9000 miles on it, and there is still good tread on all of it. However, the tire's center band of rubber (middle of the tread, all around) is 1/8 to 1/4 inch higher than the rest of the tire, like a ridge. My Harley dealer said I've been running too low a pressure, that the recommended pressure in the owner's manual is only for Harley's brand of tires. He said other brands should use pressure specified by the tire manufacturer. My Avon tire says the maximum pressure is 41 psi, but I always thought maximum was not necessarily the correct pressure. Do you know anything about this?Bear KamoroffWillits, CAVia e-mail

A First, thanks for the kind words, and congratulations on pulling 9K out of your tire. That's admirable under any circumstances. Your dealer is right on the money-the tire is underinflated. Assuming that you're using the Avon MH90-21-56H-AM41 Venom, which is a popular Softail front tire, the pressure should be set at 36 psi (cold). All tire manufacturers maintain a Web-site listing inflation figures; Avon's is That info should be in its printed catalog, too.

You are correct in that the max pressure figure stamped on the tire's sidewall is the maximum pressure that the sidewalls can handle under maximum safe-loading of the motorcycle, and as such isn't the tire pressure you'd use under normal circumstances. About the only time you'd need that much air would be if the bike were loaded to the max on a hot day and you were running at high speeds for long periods of time. As a rule of thumb, subtracting 3 psi from the maximum pressure will usually get you pretty close to the recommended pressure.

Short And SweetI plan to install the Bella Corse air-injection block off kit in my 2005 T100 Triumph Bonneville. Does this kit require any carburetion jetting changes?BenVia e-mail

A The Triumph air-injection kit is a passive device that only injects air into the exhaust header to help reduce exhaust emissions. It does not affect combustion in any way, so the short answer is no-removing the plumbing will not affect the jetting, so there's no need to re-jet.

How-To: Installing A Jet KitDespite the fact that carburetors are fast fading from the scene, there are literally millions of them still in use. I've no doubt they'll remain so long after I've gone to a home for doddering old mechanics. In the main, most carburetors work fine most of the time, but occasions sometimes arise when a little surgery is needed. Hence the popularity of the jet kit. While re-jetting a carburetor may seem like a daunting task-especially if your only contact with one has been turning a twist grip-it's actually straightforward. Here's the 411.

What's A Jet Kit? This may sound like an obvious question, but if you've never purchased one, how would you know? A jet kit is a comprehensive assortment of jets that allows you to reconfigure your carburetor's fuel delivery either to suit some specific purpose such as the installation of an aftermarket exhaust or airbox kit, or to correct some deficiency in the way the bike runs from the factory. As a rule, along with the hardware, you'll receive some pretty thorough instructions and in some cases a credit slip for a free dyno run so you can be certain you've selected the optimal combination of jets for your application. Be aware that not all kits include the same pieces. For example, one manufacturer's kit for a given model might include pilot jets, while another's may not.

Why Use One?The big advantage in using an over-the-counter jet kit is that all the homework has been done for you. Prior to the advent of kits, jetting was a by-guess-and-by-golly occupation. Many times you'd have to special order things like needles and needle jets. If you guessed wrong, it was back to the parts counter, and you'd have to wait weeks until the new stuff arrived. Jet kits remove the guesswork, and because they contain adjustable needles and a variety of jets, they allow you to fine-tune the fuel/air ratio to your exact requirements. Included in most kits is also a tech number with a real, live person on the other end to answer any questions that may arise. In most cases, there is also excellent online information available. In particular, the Factory Pro Web site ( is very good-an hour or two there can teach you an awful lot about how carburetors work and how to tune them.

What Won't A Jet Kit Do?Obviously, a jet kit won't repair a damaged engine. If your mill is low on compression, has a cracked intake boot or worn spark plugs, you can install jet kits until you're blue in the face and they won't change a thing. By the same token, if your otherwise properly running bike suddenly develops a case of "won't-idle syndrome" or manifests some other carburetor malady all by itself, chances are good that the problem is the result of something ingested, like water or a piece of dirt that's made its way into one of the jets. If that's the case a jet kit won't help nearly so much as a good cleaning.

Installing The KitCarburetors are no more complicated than any other mechanical device. They do, however, have some small, delicate parts, and as such are vulnerable to rough handling and contamination from dirt. So you'll need to work on them with deliberation and in a relatively clean environment. Essentially, you'll need a clean, dry place to work, preferably with a nice, solid workbench, where you can lay out the parts and a selection of hand tools. A can of aerosol carburetor cleaner and silicone spray or WD-40 will come in handy, too.

The job can be broken down into four steps: removing the carburetors; disassembling them; installing the kit and reassembling the carburetors; and reinstalling them on the bike. While the design of a few bikes will allow installation of a jet kit with the carburetors in place, that's a rarity. Especially since 90 percent of the time, the job entails drilling out the anti-tamper plugs placed over the pilot jet adjusting screw (see sidebar for details).

The first job will probably be to remove the carburetors from the bike. Your shop manual will detail the exact procedure, but as a rule you'll need to remove the fuel tank, remove or disconnect the airbox-to-carburetor hoses and then remove the carburetor cables before loosening the carburetor manifold hoses and pulling the carbs loose. The carburetor manifold clamps usually have smallish, easy-to-strip Phillips-head screws holding them in place. A sharp number 1 or 2 Phillips and a little elbow grease should get them loose, so don't be afraid to bear down. If any become truly buggered, replace them during reassembly. As an alternative, many foreign-car specialists stock thin worm drive clamps in the appropriate diameters with either Allen-head or slotted screws that are more attractive and somewhat easier to work with than the cheesy OEM stuff. Make sure to mark the location of any fuel, water, vacuum or emission lines you've removed before you disconnect them from their ports as well as the routing of throttle cables. You'll also find it easier to drain the float bowls with carburetors still in place as opposed to sloshing fuel all over yourself by removing them full.

Removing the carbs from their manifolds can be a little tricky, as the rubber tends to glue itself to the carbs. If the carbs stick, try rocking them back and forth while spraying a little silicone or WD-40 at the joint. Once the carbs are off (don't forget to plug the intake and airbox openings with clean rags) and the float bowls drained, it's a by-the-numbers exercise.

Some bikes have more carburetors than others. If you're working on multiple carbs, I suggest you complete all jetting changes first, then flip the carbs over and make all needle/spring changes, just to avoid confusion.

1 Start by removing the float bowl. You can expect the screws to be tight and easy to strip. I like to replace them with Allen-head screws (available at most hardware stores) on reassembly.

2 Before going any further, make sure you know which jets go where. The main jet should be in the center of the bowl, with the pilot jet off to one side. Be careful around the floats; rough handling could change the setting, which upsets the jetting. If the floats need resetting, the instructions and your manual will show you how.

3 Select the appropriate jet(s) from the kit and install them. Use a wrench to prevent the emulsion tube (sometimes called the discharge tube or main jet holder) from turning when the old jet is removed. A loose emulsion tube can create hard-to-diagnose running problems, so make sure it's snug. If for some reason you remove the tube, watch out for a small brass tube or "pill" located above the emulsion tube in some carbs. If the tube is removed, the pill may drop out. Since the pill acts as a guide for the needle, it has a chamfered hole on one side and a straight hole on the other, and it must be positioned correctly with the chamfer toward the top of the carburetor.

4 Reinstall the float bowl and loosen the diaphragm/slide cap screws.

5 Remove the cap and spring, followed by the diaphragm/slide assembly from the carburetor.

6 Remove the OEM needle from the slide. There are several ways to retain that needle, and in some instances the retainer may be screwed down. If that's the case (check the manual), it'll be easier on you if you break the screws or retainer cap loose before removing the slide from the carburetor bore. The needle may also have small spacers or shims either above or below it, so don't just tip the slide upside down and give it a shake.

7 The instructions will provide needle settings. Most kits contain a new needle that's adjusted with an "e"-type clip. Place the e-clip in the correct groove and secure it by placing the rounded portion of the clip on a hard surface and pushing down. You should hear a distinct "click" as it slides home. Be sure to grasp the needle as close to the non-tapered end as possible; it's delicate and if bent will be junk. Make certain any required spacers and shims are installed correctly. Some kits use spacers above the needle clip to hold it in place; some use shims below the clip to provide a fine adjustment.

8 Position the needle in the slide (a dab of grease will prevent any shims from dislodging) and gently drop the slide back into the carburetor. Make absolutely certain that the needle enters the discharge tube (a little jiggle won't hurt) and the diaphragm is properly seated in the groove. A little grease or Vaseline (I know there's a joke here somewhere) should keep it in place.

9 Install the new spring if one was provided, making sure it's seated in the cap. Install the cap and screw it down evenly.

10 All that's left is to reinstall the carbs and road test it; if you really want to make sure it's perfect, head over to the local dyno.

Right Angle - Tech tipUnless you've spent a lifetime crawling around greasy rolling stock, you'd never suspect how many different types of fittings there are. Since I've only reached the geezer stage of my life, I'm sure there are a few I haven't come across, but I'd say there are at least two dozen I'm familiar with. Luckily, the majority of motorcycles use only the type of grease fitting known as a Zerk-the nearly universal bulb-type fittings used on everything from printing presses to bulldozers. They are especially common in automotive and motorcycle applications, so you all probably know what they look like.

Although the business end of a Zerk fitting (where the grease gun plugs in) is a standard size, the fittings are available in a variety of angles. Straight fittings are most common; these work well when you have room to plug in your grease gun and whatever you're working on is positioned on a lift, but not so well when you're down on hands and knees trying to grease your motorcycle in the driveway. At those times a straight fitting may prove awkward to reach, especially if you're using a grease gun with a rigid tube. There are two solutions. The first is to trot down to your local auto-parts store and find a fitting better suited to your needs; make sure you match the threads to the old one. Imported bikes normally use a metric thread, while American bikes use SAE threads. Solution Two is even easier. Although you'll still have to hoof it to the parts store, what you'll look for instead is a right-angle, grease-fitting adapter. The adapter plugs onto the end of your standard grease gun so you can use it at right angles to the fitting. This makes it a lot easier to grease things like suspension linkage while the bike's on its wheels, and as we all know, a greasy suspension is a happy suspension.

Jet Kit Do's And Don'tsDo Your Home Work.Spend a little time researching what the jet kit contains and whether that kit is appropriate for your needs.

Do Set Aside A Clean, Quiet Place To Work.If your shop is under an apple tree, this is one job you might want to farm out.

Do Take The Time To Read The Manual Beforehand.Make sure you understand how to remove and replace the carburetors and to perform necessary adjustments.

Do Be Patient.Carburetor work can be finicky, and it's easy to get off track. If you take your time and complete each step before moving on to the next one, you shouldn't have any problems. Get distracted and you're liable to spend the whole weekend just trying to get the bike to run.

Don't Expect Miracles.A jet kit isn't a magic bullet, and in many cases experimentation may be needed before you hit that golden combination. In some cases you may have to settle for a that's-as-good-as-it'll-get solution.

Don't Second-Guess The Instructions.The guys writing them have installed more jet kits than you've had hot meals. If they tell you to initially adjust the pilot screw to 4.5 turns, do it. If you later find out it runs best at 3.5 turns, then good for you-but don't assume anything that isn't in the instructions.

Don't Throw Anything AwayKeep the OEM parts and all paperwork that came with the kit, especially if the kit was installed along with open pipes and/or airbox modifications. The bike's next owner may prefer a stock setup.

Don't Be Afraid To Contact The Manufacturer's Tech Line With Questions.These guys have run across most of the problems you're likely to encounter and will be able to steer you in the right direction should you run into any snafus. If you find a kit that doesn't have a line for tech support, take a pass.

Don't Panic If Something Goes Wrong.Carburetors are simply mechanical devices, and there is nothing particularly mysterious about them. If something fouls up, retrace your steps until you find the problem.

Drilling Out Anti-Tamper PlugsAlthough your carb's pilot screws are adjusted at the factory, chances are pretty good at some point you're going to need to readjust them. There are two types of screws out there. Type 1 is normally accessible, but requires a special tool to adjust it. Sometimes the tool is included in the jet kit, but when it isn't you can order it through the manufacturer or the aftermarket. Type 2 uses a standard slotted-screw adjuster, but has an anti-tamper plug placed over it at the factory. If your bike has the latter, your first step in the tuning process will be to remove it.

1. Locate the plug and use a center punch to dimple it as close to dead center as possible.

2. Drill through the plug. A few wraps of tape on the bit will prevent it from reaking through and wiping out the adjusting screw.

3. Screw in the sheetmetal screw.

4. Pull out the plug using a Vise-Grip.

Product ReviewTestedGerbing's Cascade Extreme Riding Jacket And PantsI've never been fond of doing clothing-related reviews. Babbling on about thread counts and such doesn't really float my boat, and I figure that if it bores me to write it, then it must certainly bore you to read it.

I mean, you may care that the Cascade Extreme Riding Jacket ($425) and Pants ($299) are constructed of abrasion-resistant 330 Cordura with 1000 denier ballistic fabric reinforcing the sleeves or has T-Pro armor strategically placed to protect your tender body in the event of a get-off. But are you really interested in knowing that the jacket closes with a two-way, heavy-duty zipper and has a Velcro-fastened storm flap and a padded collar to prevent cold air from blowing up your schnozzle? Didn't think so.

I'm sure someone needs to know there are four front pockets, two inside pockets, a pouch at the back of the jacket, that all seal as tight as a clam at low tide and that there's also slash-cut pockets for whatever and a whole bunch of neat things like large, glove-friendly pulls on all the zippers, access pockets for the electrical connections so you don't have cords dangling all over the place and convenient cargo pockets in the pants.

The seat of the pants features a nonskid surface so you don't slide around like a demented eel, and both jacket and pants feature sealed seams and a urethane coating to promote water resistance and have reflective piping applied to enhance visibility. The jacket and pants are pre-wired to accept Gerbing's electric gloves and socks (sold separately). Someone may need to know all of that, but you and me? Here's what we need to know.

First, with the liners removed, what you have is a top-of-the-line, vented and armored, textile jacket and pants with all the bells and whistles that can be worn year-round. Second, when cold or even just damp and chilly out, it takes about 10 minutes to install the electrified liners, close the vents and zip the pants to the jacket, creating a one-piece suit that'll keep you warm and comfy (especially if you also get the gloves and socks). Three, and most importantly, you need to know that when it comes to riding in really cold weather, and I mean the bone-cracking, oh-my-gawd-I'm-gonna-freeze-to-death-if-I-go-another-mile type of cold, this is the best damn suit you can buy. Oh, yeah, and I suppose you'll also want to know that it comes in three color schemes and that I plan on wearing mine until they come out with the nuclear-powered version.

Long-Term Update Kawasaki 900 Classic LTDBy the time you read this, my long-term Kawasaki will have split the scene, as they say, and I'm sorry to see it go. I'll be the first to admit that, initially, the 900 was farther down on my must-ride list than it should have been. It wasn't that I thought it was bad bike; it was just one of those bikes that for whatever reason was flying below my radar. Despite a few minor glitches, the Classic turned out to be both an excellent traveling companion as well as a very good all-'rounder.On the glitch side, the bike twice began running on one cylinder at inopportune moments (as if there's ever an opportune moment for such shenanigans). I never did pinpoint any particular cause, and the problem disappeared as mysteriously as it arrived. On the same note, the 900 tended to backfire, particularly when it was cold. Although I kept threatening to fit some sort of fuel processor to richen up the bottom portion of the fuel curve, I never actually got around to doing it-so I suppose the problem didn't bother me that much. My last complaint relates to the lack of ground clearance. This has been a sore point with me since I started riding cruisers, but the Classic seemed worse than average. It was particularly bothersome because the handling of the Kawasaki was otherwise pretty damn good, and I'd have liked to have taken a little more advantage of it.The rest of the 900 experience turned out to be excellent. The bike gets high marks for comfort, performance and, despite the hiccups, reliability. The supplied windshield, which at first I thought a bit too high and wide, offered impressive weather protection. More than once I was able to keep riding when a less-efficient screen would have had me pulling on rain gear. I was also able to cruise along at a fairly impressive clip without experiencing helmet buffeting, so while the size of the thing had me looking through rather than over it, it did offer lots of cover.On the performance side, the bike handled quite well, at least until the floorboards started dragging, which as mentioned seemed to occur way too early in the turn. Despite the noise and sparks, the chassis maintained its composure in nearly every instance, although I managed to lever the rear wheel off the ground in one tight left-hander, which positively amazed me, as well as the two guys following close behind on their late-model sportbikes. Power-wise, the 903cc never failed to deliver what I needed. I was nicely surprised by the strong midrange grunt, though I'd have liked a wee bit more steam at the top of the powerband.All of which leads us to my last and perhaps most salient point. For several good reasons, the middleweight class is arguably the most popular in cruiserdom; an awful lot of these bikes are sold, and competition in this market is fierce. Whether the 900 Kawasaki LT is the best bike in this category is a matter of personal opinion, but that it's a strong contender for the title isn't.

Tech TipBroken-Bulb BluesHave you ever had a small, burned-out bulb break off in your hand when you tried to remove it from its socket? Usually the scene plays out with either the bulb shattering in your fingers, which can get nasty, or simply twisting clean off its base, which remains stuck in the socket. In either case you're now faced with the challenge of removing what's left of the bulb from the lamp without making a hash of things. Sometimes you can reach in there with needle-nose pliers and twist the thing out, but occasionally the bulb base is below the socket or a needle-nose isn't handy. In those cases you can use the handle of the small, plastic screwdriver nearly every motorcycle manufacturer includes in the on-board tool kit. Just stick the rounded end of the handle into the socket, bear down a little, give 'er a twist and the socket should walk right out of there. And when you install the new bulb, remember to coat the sides of the base with a copper-based, anti-seize material or, better yet, a little dielectric grease to prevent it from also seizing in its socket.
DynoJet's kits include a free dyno voucher, as well as an assortment of jets and a drill bit and sheetmetal screw to remove the pilot screw's anti-tamper plug.
The pointer indicates the main jet; the pilot jet lies beneath it.
This particular carburetor uses a plastic retainer that locks into grooves to secure the needle. The small hex is used to rotate the lock ring so the needle can be removed.
The instructions will detail where the needle clip and any shims should be placed.
Press the clip into place with the closed end against a hard surface; push down firmly.