Illustrations by John Br...
It's over. If you live in the northern Rockies, Minnesota or Alaska, the riding season is history, unless you got real lucky this year. In another few weeks, much of the rest of the country will also be struggling to live without motorcycling until spring.
Lots of motorcycle shops profit every spring from motorcycle owners' failure to properly prepare their machines for a season of inactivity. The following list presents the items you should attend to in order of importance, though you will have to perform them in a different order if you choose to do them all.
While you are completing these tasks, keep a to-do list of changes, repairs, adjustments, etc., you want to make before next season starts. Put it in a place where you will see it and be reminded before spring rolls around and it's time to ride again.
The most important, and perhaps easiest, task to attend to is draining the fuel from the carburetor(s). If your bike has a petcock, turn it to off, then loosen the float-bowl drain screw or bolt, and drain the fuel in the bowl into a safe container. If the drain is inaccessible or nonexistent, remove the float bowl from the carb. If you can't do that, run the bike with the fuel turned off until the engine stops.
This procedure -- which should be done any time the bike won't be used for more than two weeks -- is the best preventive medicine for a bike that will be stored. It not only removes water and other contaminants from the bike's carbs, it prevents the various orifices of the carbs from getting clogged or restricted with varnish as the more volatile components of the gasoline evaporate. This latter problem sends many motorcyclists to their dealers every spring, and the fix is often very expensive.
If your bike is fuel-injected, draining the systems isn't possible. In that case be absolutely sure to fill the fuel tank and use a fuel stabilizer as discussed below.
2. Prevent Fuel-Tank Corrosion
During storage, unprotected fuel tanks rust, and when you start riding again, that rust finds its way into the carbs. Water in the fuel can also cause corrosion. For most riders, especially with a carbureted motorcycle, the best course of action is to drain the tank completely to remove any water or other contaminants, then refill the tank to its full capacity adding a fuel stabilizer recommended by the bike's manufacturer. Honda sells its own brand under the Hondaline label. Sta-Bil should be fine if there is no recommendation.
If you are riding to a gas station to fill the tank. put the stabilzer in before you add gas. The turbulence of the incoming fuel and the ride hoem will help to mix it.
The stabilizer keeps the fuel from stratifying. If you don't use one, the heavier elements in the fuel will be the first into your bike's carb(s) next spring -- which will wreak all sorts of havoc. It's still a good idea to drain the fuel again in the spring before starting the bike or even turning the petcock on (put the gas in a car). This is essential if you don't use a stabilizer. However, there are those who say that using a fuel stabilizer means that you don't need to drain the float bowl because the stuff is so effective. They might be right. I mean, I live is Southern California, and the only thing that keeps me from riding (unless I am very determined) is snow.
If storing a full tank of fuel all winter presents a problem, turn the petcock off and pour some heavy (50-weight or thicker) oil into the empty tank (some people thin it with fuel) and slosh it around so all the interior surfaces are coated. Turn the petcock on and drain the excess oil, and then turn it off. Since your tank is off, you might as well leave it off and repeat the sloshing process every few weeks. Before you fill the tank in the spring, drain the oil that has settled again. The small amount of oil that remains after that probably won't even make your bike smoke, and it might give the top end a little lube during that first ride.
Batteries don't like inactivity. A battery ignored all winter will usually roll over and die. The simplest way to ensure a happy off-season for your battery is to connect a Battery Minder or a Battery Tender to it. You don't even need to remove it from the bike unless it gets well below freezing where you store it or if your bike has a clock, audio-system memory, security system or other constant drain on the battery.
If a Battery Tender isn't in your budget (though it will pay for itself, probably by spring), plug a trickle charger into something that is turned on frequently -- such as the light socket on the garage-door opener or the light source in the place it's stored. Or, plug it into a light timer that will turn it on for 30 minutes a day. If none of these methods is convenient, trickle-charge it overnight every two weeks or so. If the storage place gets really cold, you might want to take the battery inside and put it somewhere where it won't alarm your spouse.
If you have a maintenance-free battery, simply clean the terminals and any serious grunge off the battery and battery box and spray a little silicone spray or other protectant on the terminals and connecting hardware. If it's one that requires fluid to be added, fill it to the top level before storage.
If you ignore you battery and leave it where it can freeze, it may do so and crack the case, allowing acid to spill on the bike. If even a drop gets on the chain, it can be rendered worthless.
Ignore the persistent old wives tail about batteries dying if they are stored on concrete.
If your battery does die during the winter, I'd recommend replacing it with one of Harley's current maintenance-free batteries, if there is one that fits your bike. We have been amazed at how well they stand up to neglect.
Clean your bike carefully before storing it. Dirt and dust hold moisture, and insects' butts (the last thing that went through their minds when they hit your bike) are corrosive and will damage paint and metal. Road salt is also bad news. If you wash it, make sure it is thoroughly dry. A good way to dry out all the hidden nooks is a long, fast ride.
Apply wax to every painted part you can reach, but you don't need to buff all the wax off until spring. Wax or a chrome polish will protect chrome. Coat other metal parts with S100 Corrosion Protectant (which lives up to its name), Maxima's Chain Wax, or LPS3. Fasteners and other small pieces can be coated with Vaseline.
Exhaust pipes will rust out if moisture gather in them, so sparaying something like WD40, LPS3 or Corrosion Protectant up in them is defintely worthwhile. If you cap them, wait until they are cold and cover them with a balloon or plastic bag held on by a bubber bad. If you have straight pipes, condoms will work, and the novelty type will give you a conversation piece to help pass those long winter months.