If you decide to take the following steps to protect your engine, they are the first things you should do chronologically -- since you can't drain the carbs, for example, until you have run the engine.
Some people like to change the oil in the spring, since some water will get into the engine during storage. That's true, but the water will be boiled off the first time you take the bike for an extended ride. Better to drain the old oil -- and the contaminants in it -- now, before the acids and other evil compounds can work on your bike's engine. Take the bike for a nice long ride in preparation, to get the oil hot, and drain it promptly upon your return. Change the filter, too. After adding the new oil, ride it around the block to be sure the fresh oil has diluted any remaining contaminants and coated everything. If you plan to change the oil you just poured in come spring, then use the cheapest oil you can find right now, perhaps a heavier grade than you normally use.
Some riders like to protect the cylinders by removing the spark plugs and pumping a very small amount (no more than a tablespoon) of that heavy oil used for the fuel tank into the cylinders, then turning the engine over (put it in gear with the plugs out and the ignition turned off and turn the rear wheel) a few times to spread the oil over the cylinder walls before replacing the plugs. This is worthwhile. An alternative system is to use fogging oil (we have found it in boat-supply stores), which is sprayed into the intake with the engine running. You simply do it until the oil fouls the spark plugs and kills the engine. If your intake is not accessible, you can spray it into the spark-plug holes. It coats the cylinders and valves. Another method for preventing interior corrosion is to use storage plugs in the spark-plug holes. These contain a desiccant to absorb moisture.
Some riders run their bikes or turn the engines over during storage. If you want to turn it over without starting, repeat the oil-in-the-plug-holes routine when you do. Running it without riding for 20 minutes or more probably does more harm than good.
If you have the valve covers off, put a shot of that 50-weight on the cam lobes or rockers.
Some riders like to seal off the intake and exhaust. Tape a plastic bag or something similar over the airbox and plug the exhaust. Note, however, that the exhaust has water drains on most bikes, and the engine still has a breather. You can plug or tape these up as long as you are sure to remove the covers before starting.
Once the engine is shut off and properly protected from corrosion, resist the urge to start it, though turning it over manually to circulate oil is worthwhile.
6. A Break for Your Brakes
Brake fluid absorbs water, which is why it should be changed. Do this at least every other year -- sooner if it has changed from its normal amber hue to a darker color. This also applies to hydraulically operated clutches. Water in the fluid can prevent clutch disengagement when the engine is hot.
Some sources recommend changing the brake fluid when you prepare to store the bike to prevent any moisture in the system from corroding the components. Others say you should change it when you prepare to put the bike back on the road to assure maximum braking performance during the riding season. Either way, be sure old brake fluid gets changed.
Owners of liquid-cooled bikes that are stored where the temperature drops below freezing should check that the coolant is up to snuff to avoid freezing damage.
Store tires away from sources of ozone, such as the electric motors in freezers, compressors, or washing machines.
Try to get your bike blocked up off its wheels, which will prevent the tires from developing flat spots. A work stand is ideal for this. If you don't get them off the floor, roll the bikes or rotate the tires every few weeks.
Inflate the tires to or past their recommend maximum pressures.
Many of the so-called tire-preservative solutions actually damage tires; it's better to use nothing.
If your tires are getting thin in the tread, consider remopving the wheels and having the tires replaced at your leisure, perhaps when the local shop has its mid-winter special.
This is a good time to replace the lubricants in any moving part: cables, chain, control levers, drive shaft, linkages, locks, pivots for the stand(s), saddle hinges, steering head, swingarm, switches, wheel bearings, etc.
You'll need a variety of lubricants ranging from wheel-bearing grease to WD-40 for the various components. Work the pieces as you apply the lube to get it into the mechanism.
If you are storing your bike for more than four or five months, you should change the oil in your drive shaft or transmission.
Store your bike in a place that is dry and free of significant temperature swings. If you are storing your bike inside, use a breathable fabric cover, one that won't trap moisture but still keeps dust off. Call Roadgear (719-547-4572) for one of its new indoor bike covers -- but an old sheet will suffice.
If you must store your bike outside, there are purpose-built storage systems such as the Cycle Shield that seal out moisture and dust and use a desiccant or electric dehumidifier to keep it dry, but it's better to rent a spot in a nice warm, heated garage, preferrably a private one away from covetous eyes.
With your bike put into hibernation, you have taken the first step to assure a happy riding season next year. Your to-do list and any additions or mods will complete the process. As you perform the various storage procedures, consider what needs to be adjusted, serviced or or replaced. If it needs tires, they may be cheaper during the winter. Fluid in the radiator, fork or other systems might be ready to be freshened. You may notice anything from brake pads to shift levers that are due for replacement. Valves are supposed to be adjusted with the engine cold, and it probably won't be much colder than in February.
Since you won't be riding your bike for a while, you may want to peruse the Custom section of MotorcycleCruiser.com for some ideas on some customizing ideas.
For more articles on how to maintain and modify your motorcycle, see the Tech section of MotorcycleCruiser.com.