Start with a quick inventory,...
Start with a quick inventory, make sure all the parts are present and accounted for and that you have some idea where they go. The Motosens handlebar clamp kit includes a shim for use with 7/8ths handlebars.
Idiot lights are fine as far as they go. They're small and relatively unobtrusive, so a number of them can be clustered together in an instrument panel, or arranged neatly across the bottom of something like a speedometer or tach. Furthermore, they're easy to check with a quick sweep of the eyes and when there's the problem, they stand out like a sore thumb. Lastly, they're cheap to produce, which are all good reasons for OEM manufactures to use them.
Unfortunately, because indicator lights are either on or off, under most circumstances by the time one's winking at you the damage is done, and nine times out of ten, your only recourse is to shut off the engine and start walking.
On the other hand, because gauges allow you to monitor things on a regular basis you can normally catch problems as they develop, when you can still do something about them, rather than wait for them to become full blown, "uh oh, my bike is broke down on the side of the road," disasters.
Loosely install the mounting...
Loosely install the mounting bracket, you'll probably be repositioning it after the gauge is installed, so there's no need to man up on the mounting bolt
just yet.
For example, by the time a high water temperature indicator light comes on, the engine is either already overheated or dangerously close to it, so your only real option is to pull over as quickly as possible and let the thing cool off, before you can affect a repair... assuming of course that is even possible. On the other hand, since temperature gauges constantly monitor and display the coolant temperature, it very easy to see when things are getting off kilter. Generally, the needle will start to register higher than normal readings some time before the engine overheats so in most cases you'll have ample time to affect repairs before there's a disaster.
On the down side, gauges take up a lot more space than indicator lights, and they're more expensive, so few manufactures supply them as standard equipment, especially on cruisers, so if you want them, in most cases you're going to have to install them yourself.
Fortunately, installing a set of gauges is relatively simple. You'll need to do a little bit of wiring work, and you'll need some basic hand tools, but if you can change your own oil (or even if you can't), you should be able to install something like a voltmeter or oil temperature gauge in an hour or three at most.
Once the gauges are installed,...
Once the gauges are installed, you can adjust them to your liking and cinch everything down. Remember the idea here is to be able to read them at a glance, so position them where they're easy to read without taking your eyes off the road.
Here's how to do it. Gauges commonly consist of three parts, there's the gauge itself, a sending unit (which won't be required for all gauges), and a mounting bracket (if required.) In some cases, the sending unit will be included with the gauge, in other instances it'll have to be purchased separately, so check with the supplier beforehand. As an aside, this is perfectly logical because while something like an oil pressure gauge itself is more or less universal, different applications require different sizes and styles of sending units.
As a rule, installation instructions are also provided. But as always, it won't hurt to have a service manual handy, just in case something doesn't seem kosher, or you run into an unusual situation.
The oil temperature sensor...
The oil temperature sensor should be located in a spot where it can be immersed in oil and where the temperature is consistent. The sump is a perfect place, and in fact, many sensors are intended to replace the drain plug, as is this one.
For our purposes, we selected an oil temperature gauge and a voltmeter. Both air and liquid cooled engines do their best work when the oil temperature runs somewhere between 200 and 220° F, although some will run closer to 230-235° (F) if it's really hot out and the engine is under a load. Once the temps hit 250 degrees (F) you've got problems, so keeping tabs on the oil temperature is one way to ensure your engine's longevity. If nothing else it'll tell when you when it's time to pull over and let the engine catch its breath (or not). By the same token, if the gauge consistently shows that oil is running hotter than optimum, you can fit an oil cooler, change over to a full synthetic and observe the results, or do whatever else you think necessary to bring it down. As they say, information is always a handy thing to have.