Squeal deal
Q I have a '06 H-D Dyna Wide Glide and need to replace the rear (only) brake pads. Actually, they don't even look too worn, but they are squeaking right at the end of my stops, so if I am going to take them apart, I thought I might as well replace them. I have looked all over the Internet, but can't find an answer to this question: If I buy the pads to install them myself, can this task be done while the rear wheel & rotor are on the bike? I don't want to loosen the two small star bolts without knowing for sure that I will be able to push the new ones into place and replace the bolts). In addition, what is your recommendation for the best replacement pads to install & where you suggest is the best (least expensive) place to buy them. Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
Marshall Maher
Via e-mail
A My first suggestion would be to try cleaning the pads with a shot or two of brake wash before you replace them, you may be pleasantly surprised at the results. I'd also suggest you purchase a shop manual and read through the section on rear brake replacement before diving in too deep. While replacing the rear pads is a straightforward enough job there are some nuances to it that can trip up the unwary and the consequences of even a small mistake can have some nasty repercussions.
That aside, the short answer is yes, the pads can be replaced without removing the caliper, rotor or wheel from the bike. As far as replacement pads, I'd suggest going with OEM, or one of the top shelf aftermarket suppliers like EBC or DP, they're relatively inexpensive and meet or exceed OEM standards.
Oops!
Q I have a stripped oil drain plug on my Road Star. People have recommended using a Heli-Coil to repair it. What are your thoughts? In addition, what is the flow of oil through the engine? Does oil flow from the bottom of the case up through the oil filter? Will the filter catch anything that might be in the case?
Paul
Via e-mail
A My first thought is bummer Paul. My next thought may do you some good. I'd use either a Helicoil or better yet, a similar type of thread repair device called a Time-Sert, www.timesert.com.
To prevent chips from entering the engine coat the tap with stiff grease, wheel-bearing grease works really well, and withdraw the tap every few threads so you can clean it and apply fresh grease. It sounds tedious but it's a lot less tedious than filling your crankcase with aluminum chips. Flush the area with brake wash or contact cleaner before and after you've installed the thread repair device, and you should be good to go. Any leftover debris will be too small to cause any damage, and should be picked up and trapped by the oil filter.