Bar Back Banter
Q I enjoy reading your down-to-earth Shop Talk. You don't patronize anyone, no matter how unsophisticated the question, and you use everyday language, rather than "tech talk". Thanks for being both readable and understandable. Thanks, also, for being a fan of my new C90T. Therein lays my question.
I love the bike, but being 5'5", I'm stretching too far to reach the grips. I'd like to get about 2-3 inches more pullback. I've read everything I can find on risers (bar-backs) verses new bars. Opinions vary widely, depending on the forum. I'd like to buy risers, because they're simpler to install, but am told by my dealer that they will upset the geometry of the bike, especially at low speed. I can't see how risers would create geometry any different from that created by replacing the bars. Is this something I need to be seriously worried about? I'd like to have some idea what I'm getting into before I fork out $150.
Doug Hiatt
Tacoma, WA
A I like a guy that appreciates straight talk so here it is. Your dealer is snowing you. A motorcycle's steering geometry is determined by its frame dimensions, suspension settings, and wheel diameters and not by the position, height or width of the handlebars. So bottom line, whether you reposition the bars by installing new ones or using risers is immaterial as far as the geometry of the bike goes.
To be fair to the dealer, changing the shape and dimensions of the handlebar or its position relative to the steering head will have an impact on the way the bike feels, and perhaps this is what he meant, but again whether the change is because the handlebars were swapped or they were repositioned by using bar backs or risers is of no consequence.
Speedo Solution
Q I have a mechanical question regarding my 2003 Honda VTX "C" series speedometer. I have noticed that my speedometer goes to "0" then back to normal during riding. It does that on and off. What could be the problem? If the sensor needs to be replaced or cleaned, where is it located?
Via e-mail
A You may have a problem with speedometer, the sensor, or the wiring. To determine which is at fault locate the speedometer's electrical connector block, which is clipped beneath the right hand cylinder head cover. Disconnect it, with the bike in neutral and the ignition ON have someone slowly turn the rear wheel while you measure the voltage between the white wire (+) and the green/black (-) (make certain you're testing the wires on the side of the harness that come from the speed sensor). The voltage should pulse between 0V and 5V. If the voltage is there, replace the speedometer. If it isn't check the white wire for an open or short circuit, and check the green/black for an open. The speed sensor is located beneath the left rear crankcase cover behind the coolant tank. Honda sells a test harness that's used to troubleshoot the sensor but with a little imagination, you can probably jury rig something that'll work although you'll need the shop manual and some Honda specific terminals to do so, and I'm thinking that if you had those you wouldn't need me. You can also use the process of elimination, if the wiring is good between the sensor and the speedometer, but there's no voltage flowing when you spin the wheel it's a safe bet the sensor is kaput.