Motorcycle Exhaust Installation - How To

However, there's always an exception to the rule and here's where it pays to read through the manual. Honda, in their infinite wisdom recommends removing the VTX1300 pipe in one large chunk. This was at odds with the pipe builders supplied instructions, but it did save time and effort, proving that even an old dog like me needs to read the manual from time to time.

Whatever method you use is of little consequence but take the time to lay a little groundwork beforehand. As a rule, motorcycle exhausts are normally in much better shape than the rust factories found on your family grocery getter, so corroded, crusty parts and hardware aren't normally an issue. Regardless, it pays to give all the exposed hardware a good dousing in WD-40, Liquid Wrench or some other rust-busting aerosol at least a day or two before you plan to remove the exhaust. A good, penetrating oil will make the job go a lot smoother and reduce the chance some recalcitrant nut or bolt will seize solid and make the job more challenging than it has to be.

Once the old exhaust has been removed, bag up all the OEM hardware, label it and put the exhaust and the hardware safely aside. Resist the temptation to toss it out or sell it on E-bay. Many states are enacting muffler sound and emission laws, or in some cases, simply mandating that your motorcycles muffler(s) have an OEM exhaust certification stamp, so down the road you may want to reinstall that stock system if only to avoid certain legal hassles. It'll also sweeten the deal with a potential buyer should you decide sell the bike at some future date.

On With The New
With the old system tagged, bagged and out of the way it's time to install that bright and shiny new pipe. Start by replacing or at least inspecting the exhaust port gaskets, if you're going to reuse them, (again, not recommended,) make sure they're still serviceable, look for nicks, gouges or serious deformity, if there's any doubt, replace them. While you're in there it won't hurt to give the exhaust port a little attention. Built up carbon can prevent the new pipe from seating properly and make it more difficult to install. A quick swipe with a hunk of sandpaper should clean things nicely. If your engine uses exhaust port studs, now's the time to make sure they're snug. Your manual may have an installed height specification for the stud, but in most cases tight is fine, but remember too tight is broken so don't be overzealous when you're applying the wrench. If everything is to your liking, install the exhaust port gaskets, if need be with a dab of grease, to prevent them from dropping out.

Typically, the head pipe will held in place with a collar or flange. If the flange isn't already on the pipe select the correct one, some flanges are asymmetrical, the pipe builder's instructions should provide clear details and slide the pipe into the port. A light coat of anti-seize applied to the pipe will help it glide home and make it easier to remove, should it ever come to that. It'll also make it easier to adjust the pipe so you can get a perfect fit. Snug but don't fully tighten the head pipe, you'll probably being doing some adjusting before you're done.

Normally the first head pipe will be followed by the second, and so on, but in some circumstances, you may need to install a bracket or collector before proceeding, look to the instructions for the specifics. For example the Roadhouse Classic pipe we're installing on the VTX, uses a two into one collector system so there's a Y pipe that must be in place before the rear cylinder's head pipe can be inserted. Again a dab of anti-seize will speed things along and prevent the pipes from binding should you need to adjust them. Snug the clamps, but don't fully tighten them just yet, a little slack in the system will make it easier to fit the remaining parts. Typically, the last step will be to install any mounting brackets and hardware followed by whatever your particular installation requires in the way of a muffler.

Opinions vary on what sequence to use when tightening up the exhaust system. One manual recommends starting at the head pipe and working your way to the muffler, while another wants the process reversed.

I like to start at the head pipe and work my way towards the mufflers, tightening everything in stages. It usually takes me two or sometimes three passes to torque everything down, but doing it this way pulls the joints down evenly and completely which helps prevent any backfiring-induced air leaks and forestalls preloading the system, which might lead to premature component failure.* (see sidebar 2)

With the system firmly secured go ahead and install any heat shields or muffler guards, and replace any ancillary parts, like floorboards, brake levers or side covers that were removed to access the exhaust system. As a final touch wipe down the exhaust with a clean rag and your favorite degreaser, I generally use brake or contact cleaner to remove any greasy paw prints, before giving the pipe a quick coat of chrome polish or wax. After the road test, allow the system to cool off, and then recheck all the hardware, just in case it's gone a little slack after being heat-cycled.