Engine
Because engine problems are always dealbreakers I like to vet the engine before I waste a lot of time looking over the rest of the bike.
Oil Level And Condition: The condition may be hard to assess, especially if you're checking it through the sight glass. Don't be bashful-ask the owner when it was last changed.
Ease Of Starting: Some engines just start harder than others, but unless special circumstances are involved the engine should turn over without laboring and start within a few cranks.
Idle: A cold engine should idle on the choke; a warm one should idle at the recommended rpm without loping or misfiring.
Throttle Response: The engine should respond smoothly to the throttle without hiccupping, coughing or sputtering.
Smoke: Some wispy white smoke is normal during warm-up, particularly when the engine and ambient air temperatures are ice-cold. Thick black or blue smoke is never a good sign, and it's a really bad sign if it increases as the bike warms up. Heavy dark smoke may be indicative of an overly rich mixture or an engine that's burning oil. Heavy white smoke usually means coolant is entering the combustion chamber.
Fluid Leaks: Check for external oil, fuel and coolant leaks.
Exhaust: Blued head pipes are only a cosmetic issue, but severe rust, rot or big dents are omens of impending pipe replacement.
Noise: In the main there shouldn't be any odd rattles, bangs or wheezing, but noises are tough to diagnose. Some perfectly healthy bikes sound like threshing machines. If there's any doubt, pass or have a qualified mechanic take a listen for you.
Maintenance Records
A verifiable service history is a real bonus. In this day and age mileage in and of itself isn't that great an indicator of a bike's condition. A bike with 20K on it whose owner can't remember the last time it was serviced may not be as a good a value as the same model with 30K or even 50K on it that's been meticulously maintained. In my experience the fact that the owner is conscientious enough to keep service records speaks for itself.
Watch Out For
Since our example bike on page 86 is a VTX1800, we felt we should point out potential problems. Earlier VTXs had some plug fouling and, every so often, rear-drive flange-bolt looseness. We plan on doing periodic model-specific reviews in upcoming issues.
Final Drive: Chain/Belt/Shaft
Chain: Check for wear, lubrication and adjustment.
Rear Sprocket: Look for hooked or damaged teeth and loose or missing mounting bolts. Check for excess play at hub.
Countershaft Sprocket: An examination of the rear sprocket is a clue to the condition of the countershaft sprocket, so you don't have to go nuts here, particularly since gaining access to the countershaft sprocket may require removing a cover or two.
Belt: Check for physical damage, cuts and embedded debris.
Cogs: Check mounting hardware and condition. Cogs rarely wear out unless the bike has very high mileage.
Shafts: Listen for any rumbling, creaking or squeaking when the bike is rolled forward or backward.
Good To Know
Although we're primarily concerned with cruisers here, one thing I'd caution you to watch for, particularly if you're looking at a sportbike, is safety-wire holes drilled in things like the brake caliper bolt or oil drain plug. If they're there the bike has been on the racetrack, so make sure you know what you're getting into.