Tech TipsThe WD-40 TapesWD To The Rescue (Again!)I like clean machinery, so over the years I've experimented with just about every possible method for keeping my tackle (and that doesn't only mean my motorcycles) as clean as possible. On the other side of that same coin, because I fool around with lots of vintage motorcycles, I'm always on the prowl for some way to clean things like soaked-in fuel and grease stains without being too aggressive. One of the best methods I've come up with is WD-40 and a small nylon or toothbrush-type scrub brush. The beauty is that you can remove dirt, light rust and even corrosion from the parts that are still attached to the motorcycle without a whole lot of effort. Start by lathering the dirty area with WD, let it sit for five or 10 minutes and then start scrubbing. If the part is painted or finished, use the nylon brush; if it's bare, use the brass, repeating as necessary. The brushes are available at any hardware or auto-parts stores for something around a buck a throw and can reach even the most inaccessible spot.
Hacker Pipes
The Good and Not So Good
I don't want to damn with faint praise, but overall the HackerPipes performed as I'd expected. With airbox modifications, we did increase torque and horsepower, and I've no doubt that with a bit more fine-tuning, and perhaps some ignition work, the numbers can go higher. Although I didn't retest the open pipe due to time constraints, I'm willing to bet that with the airbox cover removed it, too, would have shown an improvement over our original test.
On the whole, I'd give the Hackers a "B." Though they don't churn out as much power as I'd like-and in that respect aren't much different from many other aftermarket pipes-they are well-made and easy to install, and, yeah, I'll grudgingly admit that the noise levels are acceptable when some restraint is shown. Furthermore, with a few simple mods, they will produce a measurable increase in torque and horsepower, and that's always a good thing.
Rust Never Sleeps
Every so often some poor schnook needs to know how to remove rust from his fuel tank. The first rule is to never let your fuel tank get rusty in the first place, but with some of the fuel formulations we're pouring into our tanks these days, rust is almost an inevitable side effect of riding. So how do you clean a tank quickly and easily? Simple: First drain and remove the tank from the bike (or vice versa if you're the perverse type). Next remove the petcock, fuel pump, fuel gauge, sending unit or anything else that makes its home in the tank and plug up the holes. Pour a quart of WD-40 into the tank, along with a handful of 31/48 nuts. Close off the filler neck with the cap or a plug and start shaking that tank like you ain't got no brains, as Bruce Springsteen might say. In fact you might want to put on some earphones and turn your favorite tune up to 10 to enhance the experience. After about 15 minutes or longer, if the rust warrants it, drain the tank, remove the hardware and flush it with a little fresh gas or brake wash. You can finish the job by coating the tank with a plastic sealant like Kreme, or if it was just surface rust, simply put it back in service. Whatever you do, I'd recommend replacing the fuel filter or adding one if none is present to catch errant rust particles before putting the bike back on the road.-MZ