BMW BS
Q I currently ride a Harley- Davidson Sportster, but I am considering getting a new bike. I was looking at the BMW R 1150 R (which is no longer being produced, so I would buy used). However, the BMW dealer said that I would have to bring in the bike at every service to have error codes read. Is this really necessary, or is it something you can do yourself? I like to do all my own maintenance to save money.Andrew Carlson Via e-mail
A Carlson, please send me the name of your local BMW dealer, so I know where not to go. The 1150R is like anything else with EFI. As long as it's running properly, it won't throw any codes, so on the face of it, the dealer's statement is just silly. That said, the ABS/Integral brake systems can be a little tricky to work on, especially when it comes to changing the fluid and bleeding the system, (special tools are required), so you'll want that end of it done by a dealer. And, of course, the EFI requires special tools and knowledge. Those issues aside, in most regards BMWs are no more difficult to work on than anything else. Provided you've got a few hand tools, a service manual and some common sense, you should be able to perform the routine maintenance and day-to-day adjustment-type stuff on your own.
Dyna Dilemma
Q The rear suspension on my 2005 Dyna Super Glide bottoms out too much on rough roads and corners. I would like to raise and stiffen it a bit for more ground clearance and lean angle, and I plan on installing a set of Progressive HD adjustable shocks. I have already set the preload at maximum. I am hoping to mimic the handling of the Sport model. Will that do it for me, or would you recommend any other changes?Harry SimensonVia e-mail
A The Progressives are a great start, but if you really want that thing to turn and handle, I'd recommend installing a set of matching fork springs and, as a final touch, a set of RaceTech Gold Valve Emulators and the proper weight fork oil. Installing the Emulators will require pulling the front fork apart, and dialing them in might take some experimentation, but the end result will be well worth the effort. I modified a buddy's Heritage a few years back with the setup we're discussing, and the change in handling was phenomenal. One last thought: Since the rear preload is maxed out, you might want to consider installing stiffer rear springs, or maybe a 1-inch-longer shock. (Check out Cherney's long-term VTX installment for more info.)
Level Up
Q I'm just in my second year riding, so I'm still at the stage where lots of stuff is new. I'm trying to find out about checking fluid levels-specifically, should levels be checked when the bike is on its sidestand or sitting upright? My 1997 Honda Shadow Ace has only a sidestand-no centerstand. The owner's manual is not clear. The Haynes manual is silent. I haven't asked a mechanic yet. Is there a general rule?Mark SpenceMilton, OntarioVia e-mail
A Mark, as a general rule, fluids should always be checked with the bike upright and on a level surface.
How-To Pipe Dreams
I've never been wild about aftermarket pipes. In my opinion, most of them produce too much noise and not nearly enough power. Apparently I'm in the minority. The pipe business appears to be booming (no pun intended), and at least half the letters I receive are related to exhaust systems.
Consequently, when HackerPipes asked us to test a version of their "Track-Tuned Header System," I was ambivalent. After all, there was the noise issue, and the last thing I felt the Victory KingPin needed was more power. On the other hand, I realized that a pipe article-particularly one that featured hard numbers-might be of great service to our readers.
What transpired next sealed the deal. During one of our conversations, Hacker's PR guy mentioned that dyno testing wasn't part of their program. In fact, HackerPipes didn't even own a dyno, but based on seat-of-the-pants testing and customer feedback, they felt their pipes made more power than a stock setup.