The Official Motorcycle Cruiser Used-Bike Checklist
Body workFuel tank: general condition and paintFenders and side covers: look for scratches, dents, broken side-cover tabsSeat: look for tears and missing trim, collapsed foamPaint and chrome: look for repaired areas, general condition. Chrome should be shiny and rust freeWindshield: properly mounted, any cracks or glazing?Saddlebags: inspect hard bags for signs of damage, soft bags for tears or abrasions, especially on the wheel sidepanels
Engine/transmission/clutch
Oil: the level should be correct, and the oil relatively clean. (Cleanliness is subjective of course. If there's any doubt, find out when it was last changed.)Oil leaks: this ain't 1965; there shouldn't be anyStarting/running: most sellers will have warmed up the engine, so this can be deceptive. The engine should start easily, even if it's cold, and warm up within a few minutesSmoke: any heavy, black or blue smoke is cause for concern and reason to move onIdle/throttle response: a warm engine should idle smoothly at a reasonable speed. It should also respond smoothly to the throttle. If it spits and sputters before the rpm picks up, something is wrongNoise: any decent engine should be fairly quiet, though some engines are by nature mechanically louder than others. Knocks, rattles and rumbles often indicate potential disasters. Minor problems can cause an otherwise healthy engine to play a few bars from the anvil chorus, but it takes a trained ear to decipher them. Anything that sounds really wrong probably isTransmission: trannys are best checked during a road test, something that may not be in the cards. In general, the transmission should engage smoothly, and never, ever jump out of gear. If you can't road test the bike, you may be able to observe the owner run it through the gears. Listen for a missed shift, which may indicate an engagement problemClutch: make sure it's properly adjusted and doesn't drag or slip. Like the transmission, a clutch is best tested on the roadExhaust: look for exterior physical damage, especially rust bubbles. Look for broken hardware, particularly at the cylinder head. The system shouldn't leak
Handlebars/controls/switches
Handlebars, grips and mirrors: bars should be straight, grips in good condition, mirrors in placeLevers: should be straight and properly adjusted; check the ends for scratches possibly indicating the bike was droppedSwitches: make sure they work; a big shower of sparks when you try to use one indicates problemsCables: should operate freely without binding. Look for tears in the rubber covers. Check the routing, especially if aftermarket bars are fitted
Fuel tank/lines and petcock
Fuel tank: check for internal rust. The tank should be securely mounted, and there shouldn't be any signs of leaksFuel hoses: properly secured and in good conditionPetcock: if there is one, make sure it moves freely and doesn't leak
Cooling system (if applicable)
Leaks: there shouldn't be anyCoolant level: should be roughly halfway between max. and min. marksTemperature gauge: with the engine warmed up, the gauge should be reading normalCoolant fan: these all differ in operation. The owner or owner's manual should be able to fill you in on the particulars, but in the main the fan should come on whenever the gauge approaches the red zone and sometimes when the bike is parked with a hot engine, even if it's off
Tires/wheels and sprockets
Tires: there should be plenty of tread left, with no signs of dry rotWheels: look for dents, and, if possible, give the wheel a spin. If there's a noticeable wobble, it'll need to be trued, or replaced if it's a cast wheelSpokes: should all be snug and straight. Give each one a light tap with a pencil or screwdriver handle. A tight spoke will give off a "ping," while a loose one will sound flat. Bent spokes will have to be replacedWheel bearings: these don't give much trouble unless the bike has very high mileage or has been pounded with a high-pressure washer. The wheels should spin smoothly without excess playChain: should be properly lubricated and adjustedRear sprocket: teeth should be properly formed and straight. If they're hooked, bent or missing both sprockets, the chain will have to be replacedBelt: check for nicks, cuts, abrasion and adjustmentBelt pulley: look for excess wear, chipped cogs or external damageShaft drive/rear end: check for leaks; make sure the wheel turns smoothly without making any odd noises
Electrics/instruments
Battery: should be capable of starting the bike without strainLights: check the signal and brake lights in turn, and don't forget the high and low beams. Make sure all the indicator and instrument lights come onHorn: it either works or it doesn'tAccessories: all electric accessories should be properly installed. If it looks like "who did it and ran" wired the thing, figure on redoing the job ASAP.Wiring harness: be on the lookout for large gobs of tape or wires that have been spliced into the harness, which would indicate that someone's been in there fooling aroundCharging system: with the engine running, apply a brake (to turn on the brake light) and watch the headlight as the rpm rises. It should get slightly brighter as the charging system kicks inInstruments: these should be legible and work smoothly
Frame/Rear Suspension
Frame: look for indications of an accident, particularly around the steering head. Repainted areas, welds or deep scrapes indicate problems. If there's any doubt, move onRear shocks: look for leaks and loose mounting hardwareSwingarm/suspension pivots: check the swingarm for play; if the bike uses linkage, check each pivot point
Miscellaneous items
VIN numbers/engine numbers: altered, missing or non-matching numbers are a warning that something's not kosher. There may be a perfectly good explanation, but I'd recommend you consult with your local DMV before purchasing any bike with numbering issuesAftermarket parts: a gray area at best, particularly with cruisers.I'm always leery of "performance modifications." A pipe and airbox kit are one thing, especially if the stock parts are included in the deal, but unless you know exactly what you're getting into, hot rods can lead to serious headaches. Tread carefully, particularly if you intend to use the bike as a daily rider. As far as things like saddlebags and windshields are concerned, you can always take them off if you don't like themService records: these are nice to have, but few riders keep themPaperwork: verify that all the paperwork is complete, and that the numbers on the title and registration match the numbers on the bike. Make absolutely certain everything's in order before you hand over that cash.
First impressions
Those of you who attended Miss Manners School of Etiquette should recall the old adage about first impressions being the most lasting. The same is true of used motorcycles. In my experience, a bike that looks like it's had a rough life, probably has. As a rule, guys who don't worry about the way their bikes look generally aren't too concerned about the way they maintain them, either. While there are certainly some riders who take a perverse pride in riding a scruffy-looking yet immaculately maintained motorcycle, they are few and far between. Yeah, that cobby-looking Vulcan/VTX/Virago or Volusia may be a diamond in the rough, but chances are far more likely it's just rough.