Q&A
Emission Issues
Q I purchased my '01 Road Star Silverado in Maryland, took it to California and now live in Arizona. I've been in the Tucson area for about a year, and all of a sudden DOT wants me to get my bike checked for emissions before I license it for a second year. So I rode it down to the emission check station only to find out that it failed the carbon monoxide part of the test. I passed the hydrocarbon section with no problem, which is somewhat surprising because I removed the air-induction system years ago. I would prefer to make adjustments to the bike myself to correct this problem, but I don't have a good understanding of what causes too much carbon monoxide. I've done the standard stuff we all do to our bikes-rejetting, exhausts, airbox, electrical upgrade, and so on. Any suggestions you might have would be appreciated.
Jerry Allen
Via e-mail

A First the basics: High carbon monoxide (CO) levels are caused by anything that makes the engine run rich, and as a rule of thumb they go up as the unburned hydrocarbon level (HC) goes down. This is because CO is a byproduct of combustion, while HCs are unburned fuel particles. HC levels rise when there's a misfire and the engine skips a combustion cycle. When that happens, raw, partially burned fuel comes out of the tail pipe, but because combustion is incomplete no CO is produced. To get through emissions I'd get the bike good and hot, then lean out the pilot-screw adjustment until the bike develops a lean miss at idle. Then enrich the mixture slightly until the miss disappears. That should put both HC and CO levels within tolerance.

The greater issue is that this type of testing is going to become more prevalent as time goes by, and as the rules become more stringent it's going to take more than a tweak of the pilot screw or some tap dancing on the fuel module to get through emissions. My recommendation? Hang onto those old pipes and emission parts; you never know when you'll need to reinstall them.

Carb Conundrum
Q I'm considering the purchase of a carburetor-equipped '06 yamaha, but I'm not really sure it's the way to go. I'm partial to EFI, in part because I feel EFI-equipped bikes are more reliable and more powerful. what's your view? will a carbureted cycle cause more problems? Thanks.John Blazys
Via e-mail

A Like you, I've grown to really like EFI systems. In the main, EFI-equipped bikes rarely suffer from hardstarting or idle issues and work well over a wide range of riding situations. They are also easily remapped to deal with things like aftermarket exhausts and air filter kits and are for the most part bulletproof. On the other hand most carburetors work well, are dead reliable and are easy to rejet should you want to swap pipes or fine-tune them. So bottom line, if a given bike were available with either EFI or a carburetor I'd always opt for the EFI version, but I wouldn't pass on a bike I liked solely because it came only in a carbureted version.

Octane Opinions
Q It was interesting to read your opinions on grades of gas ("Hit or Myth," Oct. '07). My brand-new '07 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad has had premium (93 octane) in it per the manufacturer's recommendation. I know you said running 89 octane would be OK and I'm going to try it on my next fill-up, but what about running 110 octane Turbo Blue? I have a riding buddy with an H-D Ultra who swears by it, running a gallon or two every couple of months or so. He says it helps clean gunk out of the engine because it burns so hot. I tried it (one gallon in a 5.3-gallon tank) and really did not notice any difference.

Also, I've had my Cobra pipes on for more than three months now, and they're brown instead of black. I asked my dealer service guy, and he said that's the opti-mum color. Not gray for lean or black for too rich-what do you think? Thanks.
JW
Via e-mail

Please don't read more into my comments on octane than are there. What I said was, "you can run the lowest octane you can find that doesn't detonate." you can certainly try the 89 octane, but if you experience knock or ping (detonation) you'll need to return to high-test. As for your buddy's Turbo Blue, all gasoline has the same approximate caloric value-19,000 BTUs per liter-meaning the 110 won't run any hotter than 89 octane, so his theory doesn't hold water. Ironically, though, if you run low-octane fuel that causes detonation, the pistons will have a nice, clean, freshly scoured look to them, especially around the hole that burns through the center.

Regarding your other question, I don't put much stock in the color of the pipe because there are too many variables. For instance, fluffy black soot in the pipe indicates a rich mixture, but a little bit of black may just mean you're spending too much time trolling around town at low speed. I know one guy who claims any color in a pipe means it's too rich-his tips are actually rusty and his bikes make great power (but are very high-maintenance). A better indication as to the quality of the mixture would be the color and condition of the spark plugs and how the bike runs. Off the record, though, I'd be happy with any tailpipe tip color that was between gray and brown.

Reach Mark at zimmemr@aol.com

Early motorcycle engines were almost universally built with a single cylinder. This was primarily because singlecylinder powerplants, being largely based on existing industrial designs, were straightforward to manufacture and easy to install in the bicycle-type frames typical of the period. They also were durable and economical to run and repair, which was a much larger selling point back then than it is now.

But singles had a few drawbacks. The most serious was a high level of vibration and a decided lack of power. The term "one-lunger" meant not only that the engine had a single "lung" or cylinder but also that it tended to run out of breath. Both problems would eventually be overcome, though not for a good many years.

The obvious solution was to increase the number of cylinders for a given engine disto placement. The theory held that several evenly spaced small bangs are less intrusive than one big one, and while a multiple-cylinder engine won't necessarily make more torque than a single of equal displacement (or vice versa, for that matter), its smaller (and therefore lighter) pistons and presumably shorter stroke allow it to rev higher. So all things being equal, it'll normally produce more horsepower, which motorcycle riders of any era always find to be a good thing.

The immediate questions, of course, were how many cylinders were enough and how to arrange them. Pre-world war I designs included flat-fours, inline-fours, flattwins, parallel twins and, yes, V-twins. Each design had its own champions, and some very interesting motorcycles were built.

But it was the V-twin design that seemed to hold the most promise. In 1911 Indian went to the Isle of Man TT races with three of its 584cc, 42-degree V-twin bikes, taking first, second and third place. Shortly thereafter every motorcycle manufacturer worth the name had some sort of narrow-angle V-twin in its catalog, with the cylinders splayed at anywhere from 42 degrees (Indian) to 50 degrees (BSA). Harley-Davidson picked the middle ground, opting for 45-degree arrangement.

The narrow-angle V-twin struck a chord; few engine designs have endured as long. But is it the perfect motorcycle engine? Early on it seemed that way. With the cylinders in line or only slightly splayed and both rods sharing a common crank journal, the engines weren't much wider than a single, nor were they any taller or even much longer. The rear head simply fit into the spot formerly occupied by the single's carburetor, that device being relocated to the conveniently placed intake ports in the crotch of the V. Since the design was relatively compact it fit nicely into the bicycle-type diamond frames in use at the time, as well as the later loop-style frames. what you had then was a bike that was faster, smoother and more reliable.

But there's always some trade-off. True, the V-twins were more powerful than the singles they replaced, but they still shook, and the narrower the angle between the cylinders the worse they did. The peculiar firing impulses caused by fitting both rods disto a common crankpin also meant the engine felt uneven. The solution was to install large, heavy flywheels, which quelled the vibration and kept the engine turning smoothly between the power strokes. It also gave it a nice, relaxed feel, particularly at moderate rpm. Of course the heavy flywheels prevented the engine from turning the type of rpm you needed to make big horsepower, but because most designs utilized side valves and were undersquare, they didn't flow enough air at high rpm to make twisting them much above 3500 rpm worthwhile. Horsepower wasn't really an issue, especially in the U.S., where wideopen spaces and long empty roads made the slow-turning and dead-reliable (if modestly powered) V-twin the perfect motorcycle engine.

After world war II, V-twin development came to a virtual standstill. By the late '60s the motorcycle industry had all but written off the V-twin.

But the industry is serendipitous, to say the least. First Ducati and Moto Guzzi both demonstrated that a V-twin could be smooth, powerful and technically advanced. They hedged their bets by using 90-degree V-twins, which are inherently less vibratory than their 45-degree cousins, but the point was made.

When the cruiser revolution took hold, riders were quick to realize how appealing the relaxed cadence and generous powerband of the traditional V-twin engine could be, especially with modern technology applied. Once again the design began to proliferate, proving if nothing else that the more things change, the more they stay the same.

Rocket By The Numbers
I just received the Dec. '07 issue with the new Triumph Rocket on the cover. I really like the bike and the improvements, but did increasing the torque cause the bike to go from 142 horsepower to 106?
Ed Saint
Via e-mail

I just read the Dec. '07 issue of Cruiser. Your article on the new 2008 Triumph Rocket must be in error. My 2006 Rocket has 141 horsepower. Your article says the 2008, although unchanged, has 106.3 horsepower. Either your article is in error, or they did some serious detuning of the bike. What gives?
Casey Zinter
Edmonds, WA

It's no error. According to Triumph tech guys (and we quote), the new Rocket III Touring gets the "same basic 2300cc powerplant with a different tune. The bike has more torque even lower in the rev range but less top-end horsepower...."Ed

Border Gouge?
Rode a new Fat Bob H-D yesterday. Awesome machine. Very stable. Good braking. The center-mount pegs would make this machine outstanding on long rides, and it would have been my next bike except for the absurd increase in price that evidently occurs the second it crosses the Canadian border. "Hey, Milwaukee-the dollars are virtually equal; what's with the price being 20 percent higher in Canada?" I look forward to Motorcycle Cruiser's test of the Fat Bob but will hold off on buying one until the price falls more in line with its U.S. counterpart.
Jamie Reeves
Ajax, Canada

Harley or Not?
I read last issue's article comparing the Harley Sportster and the Triumph Bonneville three times, and it's not obvious which is the better bike.

The writer ends with, "Which bike do I prefer? I think it's pretty obvious."

Am I missing something or was the writer joking that it was a tough call?
Confused
Grand Forks, ND

It's an inside joke, since I own a Bonneville. That said, I wouldn't mind having a Sportster to park alongside it. Yeah, picking the better bike is a tough call.-Mark Zimmerman

Meanie Remembered
I thought Motorcycle Cruiser had forgotten about the Kawasaki Mean Streak, and then there it was in the Oct. '07 issue. It was good to hear its high points again: handling, brakes and good engine. But in my experience, there are a few less-good things to note as well: The gearbox is clunky, and there is very thin lacquer finishing on the alloy parts. Over here, nearly every Meanstreak you see has traces of pitting on the lower forks, wheels and headstock.

Harleys are even more expensive here than in the United States, so the price gap between them and Japanese metrics is pretty steep. I tried the V-Rod before the Meanie, and whilst the engine was good, the riding position was cramped for my size (6 feet 4 inches). On the Meanie, the bars and the footrests are just right. When passersby ask me, "Is that a Harley?" I usually say, "Nah, it's better than that!"
Alan Lovell
Surrey, England

Boob-Tube Touring
Am I the only one who sees the image of the Looney Tunes Tasmanian Devil in the front of the new Victory Vision? It looks like he's eating the front tire! It's an appropriate look for this cartoonish representation of a motorcycle.
Mark Wright
Plymouth, MN

Perplexed by pipes
Q: Thank you for the years of knowledge shared and for lessening the frustration many of us might have experienced without your expertise.

I am in the process of having exhaust pipes installed on my Vulcan 800 Classic. I want a nice purr/rumble sound (though not excessive or annoying to the masses) and a pipe that gives stable performance. I thought Cobra was the best choice due to my prior ownership of a Classic that already had the pipes on when I purchased it. However, I recently received a recommendation to consider Hard-Krome pipes due to their sound and little, if no, bluing.

Could you give some advice on how to determine sound or other tips that may assist me in making a good choice?
Rudy
Via e-mail

A: With a buildup like that, I'm ready to come to your house and install the pipes for you. And in reality that'd probably be easier than providing a definitive answer to your question. The problem is that it's almost impossible to determine how loud a given pipe will be or what kind of tone it has without actually listening to one in the flesh. Some makers do have sound bites on their Web sites, but frankly, I haven't found them that helpful. Your best bet would be to try to find someone running the pipes you'd like, preferably on the same type of bike, and take a listen. But failing that, I can only suggest you check out some of the forums and get a few opinions on the pipes you're interested in or maybe ask at your local shop and find out which pipes are the most popular for your bike. That being said, both Hard-Krome and Cobra make very good pipes, so I don't think you can go wrong with either one.

Water Woes
Q: I own a 1995 Triumph Thunderbird. I washed it, and now it runs and idles rough. Before, the bike ran fine. Any idea what part I could have possibly ruined during the simple act of washing my motorcycle? The upper rpm is smooth once I get past the sputtering when starting out.
Marc Scott
Via e-mail

A: From your description, it sounds like water has made its way into one or more of your Triumph's float bowls. I'd drain the bowls to start with, although you may have to go so far as to remove them and give everything a good cleaning. Water may also have found its way into the ignition system at the spark plugs, so if cleaning the carbs doesn't help, pull the plugs, clean them and the high-tension caps, and seal everything up with dielectric grease. You should also check the air filter, just to make sure there's no water trapped in it and give the switches a shot of WD-40 to chase away any errant moisture.

A radial solution?
Q: I own a 2005 Yamaha Royal Star Tour Deluxe. It came from the factory equipped with Bridgestone bias-ply tires. These tires now have 4300 miles on them and howl like crazy. On the straight, they're not too bad, but on the turns, they really holler. I want to change tires and have been told by one dealer that radials are not recommended. I would like to know one solid reason why I couldn't safely go to radial tires, like 205 Dunlops. My bike uses 150-80/16 on the front and 150-90/15 on the rear.
Handeeman
Via e-mail

A: The most solid reason I can think of is because neither Yamaha nor Dunlop condone replacing a bias-belt tire with a radial, or vice-versa for that matter. Here's the 411:

Bias belt and radial tires are two completely different animals. They react to the road in contrasting ways and impart dissimilar cornering stresses to the motorcycle-a bike designed to work with one type of tire generally doesn't work nearly as well with the other. Since your bike wasn't intended to use radials, installing them could affect handling, stability and safety for the worse (the operative word here being "could"). You may also install them and think they're the best things since sliced bread. But since neither Yamaha nor Dunlop approves a radial for your bike, I'd say the smart bet would be to stick to a bias-belt design, although there's no harm in trying another brand of tire if you don't like the Bridgestones.

Lowdown on lowering
Q: What are the advantages and disadvantages of installing a lowering kit on a cruising motorcycle, especially with regard to handling?
Rodney Nichols
Via e-mail

A: Unless special circumstances are involved, lowering or "slamming" a cruiser is primarily a cosmetic modification, and in all candor, I'd be hard-pressed to think of any real advantages you'd gain by doing so. Lowering a cruiser will almost certainly impact handling for the worse simply because it reduces ground clearance.

Fin-agains wake
Q: Do the fins on liquid-cooled V-twin engines significantly contribute to engine cooling or are they primarily ornamental?
Al LaPrade
Via-email

A: Since a finless barrel always looks a little odd, bikes that use the engine as a focal point (as most cruisers do) normally have residual fins cast into the cylinders to provide a little more curb appeal. But as you surmise, their contribution to the cooling process is negligible at best. When engine styling isn't an issue -think off-road and hardcore sportbikes-the barrels are generally left smooth as a baby's butt.

Despite technology that's nearly a century and a half old, the wire-spoke wheel still has a lot going for it. Wire wheels are light, and when properly configured and maintained, strong and stiff, although not so stiff that they don't flex slightly when loaded, a feature that was particularly desirable in the days before front and rear suspension made the scene-and still isn't a bad thing. The traditional look of a wire wheel is also undeniably attractive, which goes a long way toward keeping them popular, especially with the cruiser/retro/vintage crowd.

On the downside, wire wheels do require slightly more maintenance than their cast or machined cousins. But unless you've let things get completely out of hand, it's relatively easy to perform and needs doing only occasionally.

The Theory
Wire wheels are composed of three main components-the hub, rim and spokes. The hub is basically an aluminum-alloy tube that connects the wheel to the bike. It contains the wheel bearings, and normally has two flanges on either side that are drilled to accept the spokes. Besides providing the motorcycle-to-wheel connection, the hub also acts as a convenient spot to hang things like sprockets, brakes and sometimes the speedometer drive. Outside of the occasional bearing check, most hubs need just about zero maintenance.

The rim is little more than a band of metal formed into a circle. Constructed of either aluminum alloy or steel, its job is to hold the tire in place (and give us something difficult to polish). Rims can be dented if struck hard enough, and I've seen more than one develop cracks between the spoke holes, especially after coming off a harsh encounter with a New York City pothole. Like hubs though, rims are relatively trouble-free and will perform well enough even with a few dings in them. After years of hard use, my trail bike's rims have acquired the general shape of a stop sign and they still work fine, although I'll admit I rarely run the bike at 75 mph down the interstate.

The spokes are the third piece of the wheel pie, and in many ways the most important. Spokes are thin, steel rods that are threaded at one end. The opposite end has a domed head that fits snugly in the hole drilled through the hub flange (though some designs are reversed and locate the spoke nipple there.) This end is normally turned 90 degrees or close to it; however, in some applications, a straight spoke may be used for increased strength. The threaded end passes through a hole drilled in the center of the rim, or occasionally through the outer edges (the latter design allows the use of a tubeless tire). An elongated steel nut called a nipple fastens the spoke to the rim and allows spoke tension to be adjusted.

Because spokes need to cope with driving forces from one direction and braking forces from the other, they are arranged in a tangential pattern-that is, they run at an angle from the centerline of the hub in a crossway configuration to their location in the rim. This allows one half of the spokes to brace the wheel under acceleration, while the other half braces braking forces. The spokes also cross from one side of the hub to the opposite side of the rim, which results in a triangulated structure that prevents the hub and rim from twisting in relation to each other, and provides a measure of lateral strength.

That being said, a lack of lateral strength is still the wire-wheel's weak point. But because a motorcycle banks through turns and sideways thrust loadings are relatively low (forces tend to be felt as downward pressure through the center of the wheel), lateral strength isn't that big an issue unless the wheels are poorly designed or have become weakened due to loose or missing spokes.

Of course if you're a sidecar enthusiast, the situation is reversed. Because sidecars turn like cars, side loadings on the wheels are enormous, especially at the front, and breaking some spokes is fairly common, which is why most chairs use either solid or cast wheels or have someone like Buchanan's lace them up a set with spokes as big around as a No. 2 pencil.

Lastly, if you've ever looked at a spoke wheel and wondered how those spindly little wires on the bottom could support an entire motorcycle, let alone the combined weight of the bike, rider(s) and luggage, the answer is they can't. Spokes work very well in tension but have very little compressive strength. Essentially, the motorcycle hangs from the upper spokes while the other spokes simply keep everything aligned and prevent the rim from wandering away. This is key, because once spokes lose tension, the rim and hub quickly fall out of line. Ride a bike with loose spokes for any length of time and chances are good you'll soon be rebuilding the wheel, which is neither cheap nor something a novice should be tackling unless he's got a lot of time and a real interest in becoming a wheelwright.

The Practice
Wire-wheel maintenance involves a few simple tasks and even fewer tools. The wheel needs to be inspected on a periodic basis for physical damage, loose or worn components, alignment problems and, most importantly, spoke tension. So what's periodic? Certainly, I'd give my rims the once-over if I whacked a pothole or big frost heave or maybe ran over the neighbor's kid's bicycle (don't ask), but the only time I really give them a formal inspection is when I do major service or install new tires. So, in this case, I'd say that periodic means every 3000 miles or once a year, unless your owner's manual specifies otherwise. Of course, since the whole job takes maybe 15 minutes to half an hour, you may want to perform it on a more regular basis.

While a decent job of inspecting the wheels can be done with the bike on its kickstand, it'll be far easier if the bike is upright, with both wheels off the ground. If your bike doesn't have a centerstand (and whose does these days?), use a lift or whatever it takes to get the bike into position.

A cracked rim is rare but not unheard of, so I like to start by inspecting that hoop for fractures. Most are small, hairline fissures that radiate outward from the spoke holes, and in most cases will run from one hole to another. If any are found, the rim will need replacement, but like I said, cracks are rare. Hub cracks are even less common, but it never hurts to give everything a look, just in case you're one of the lucky ones.

Modern wheel bearings are paragons of reliability and generally don't cause any problems unless they've been severely abused, typically by being hosed down with a high-pressure washer or steam cleaner (which tends to wash the grease out of them), or just by a lot of mileage. In any case, a wheel bearing will normally start to "rumble" or whine before it reaches its expiration date, so the easiest check is to just spin the wheel and listen; if it doesn't turn smoothly or there are weird noises coming from the hub center, a further look is warranted.

A bearing can sometimes develop excess freeplay, which will affect handling for the worse and eventually cause bearing failure. To check freeplay, raise the wheel slightly off the ground and grasp it at opposite points (12 and 6 o'clock work as well as any). Try to move the wheel back and forth, 90 degrees to the axle. In some cases, slight movement may be normal or at least acceptable (your service manual will have the details), but as a rule, any kind of shift indicates the bearings need adjustment or replacement.

The last type of wheel check is for true or runout (jargon for out-of-round). There are two types of runout: axial, which is a side-to-side wobble, and radial, which is an up-and-down hop. Both checks can be performed well enough by eye, at least initially, as all you're going to do is give the wheel a spin and watch it rotate. If the wheel appears to be rotating true, chances are pretty good everything's fine. Since no wheel is 100 percent perfect, manufacturers typically allow between 1 and 3mm of runout in either direction.

If there's any doubt, fix a pointer to the frame or fork (a tie-wrap will do fine), and allow it to just kiss the rim at the closest point. For axial runout, position the pointer to the side of the rim. To measure radial runout, select a point on the rim's inner or outer edge. Slowly rotate the rim until the gap between the pointer and the rim is at its greatest. If the dimension exceeds the manufacturer's recommendation, the wheel will need to be trued.

Assuming no problems are found, the final and most critical phase of the operation is to check the spokes. The time-honored method is to give each one a tap with a small wrench or screwdriver handle and listen to the sound. A nice, clear ping indicates the spoke is reasonably tight, while a flat, dull thunk means it's loose, and, as you can guess, a loose spoke is little more than a broken one that hasn't had the good sense to come apart yet.

Frankly, I don't use the ping-and-ring method anymore; it's a little too subjective and I'm as deaf as a post, anyway. However, it is a good way to make a cursory check. Just remember, you're not tuning a zither, so don't expect every spoke to hit a perfect C-sharp.

A far more accurate method of checking spoke tension is to use a spoke nipple wrench or, even better, a spoke nipple torque wrench. If you've never seen one, a spoke wrench is a short wrench with square-cut jaws designed to fit snugly over the spoke nipple. They're available from any motorcycle dealer for less than 10 bucks, and if you don't know what size to order, you can get a universal wrench that'll cover the most commonly used sizes. Special-designed spoke torque wrenches work best, but they're more expensive; a really good one, like Fasst Company's adjustable model with interchangeable heads, runs nearly 300 bucks, so unless you plan on truing a lot of wheels, a torque wrench is something of an extravagance.

Starting with the spoke nearest the tire valve stem, apply moderate pressure with your wrench. Moderate means just that; typically, spokes are tightened to somewhere between 20 and 60 in.-lbs., which equates to 1.6 to 5 lbs.-ft. That's not much, and it's easy to overtighten the spoke if you get ham-fisted. I should also warn you that it's difficult (if not impossible) to accurately torque a corrosion-seized spoke. If the nipples are rusty or obviously loose and resist tightening, it's time to have the wheel looked at by a pro. Chances are the nipples have seized, and if that's the case, you'll need to consider plan B, especially if the wheel is badly out of true.

If the nipple turns easily, give it no more than a quarter turn. Skipping the next three spokes, repeat the procedure at the fourth spoke in line. The butt end of that one should be on the opposite side of the rim from the first. Work your way around the rim giving every fourth spoke no more than a quarter turn. When you get back to the original spoke, move to the next one in line, again tightening every fourth spoke. Repeat the procedure until all the spokes are nice and snug. Doing it this way may seem tedious compared with just tightening every spoke in line, but going at it the easy way may pull the wheel out of true. The every-fourth-spoke method takes longer but ensures the rim stays round, and as we all know, a round wheel is a happy wheel, a happy wheel makes for a happy motorcycle and a happy motorcycle always has a happy rider.

True or Not?
Truing an out-of-round wheel

What we haven't discussed here in any detail is truing an out-of-round wheel. Part of the problem is that truing a wheel requires a level of expertise and patience that goes beyond that of ordinary preventive maintenance. Also, a novice can take a slightly out-of-true rim and turn it into a wobbly mess in less time than it took to write this sentence. For that reason, I'd suggest that if you're unlucky enough to encounter a seriously warped or damaged wheel, you have it professionally rebuilt. Of course, if you'd like to learn how to do it on your own, there are several excellent books and videos out there that detail the procedure.

Removing Fork Caps
Easy-off the right way

Removing your typical fork cap isn't exactly rocket science, but it can be a pain in the butt, especially the first time you do it. Since it's an integral part of fork maintenance, here's the 1, 2, 3 on removing (and installing) them without pain.

1. Wrestling with the forks when they're off the bike is a headache 99 percent of the time. It's a lot easier to loosen or remove those caps when the forks are still attached to the bike.

2. Spring preload can make the caps difficult to remove, and damn difficult to install. Relieve the spring pressure by blocking up the bike so the fork hangs freely.

3. Give yourself plenty of room to work. Some jobs, such as replacing the fork springs or adjusting preload or fork oil level, can be done with the forks attached to the bike-but not if the handlebars are in the way.

4. A wrap of masking or electrical tape will protect the fork caps from marring when you put the wrench to them; an old towel should be used to protect the fuel tank and front fender.

5. Most forks have pinch bolts in the upper and lower clamps. Because the upper pinch bolt compresses the internal threads of the fork tube, it locks the cap in like it was welded, so always back the upper pinch bolt off before trying to remove the cap bolt. If you don't, the threads are liable to come out with the cap.

6. To remove the caps, use the appropriate socket and a ratchet or preferably a T-handle to spin the cap out. As you're turning, maintain a slight downward pressure. This will prevent spring tension from overpowering the cap and forcing it up and out when it reaches the ends of the threads. Not all caps are under tension, but those that are can sometimes pop out with enough force to dent your forehead, so pay attention. In most instances, you'll be able to feel the tension on the cap diminish as it reaches the end of the tube. (If the cap gets really loose, chances are good there's no tension on it and you can simply spin it out.)

7. To reinstall the cap, lubricate the threads with grease or antiseize. If there's no preload on it, simply install it and run it like any other bolt. If there is a preload on the cap, engaging the threads can be a little tricky. One way to overcome the spring tension is to place the cap in your socket with the ratchet or T-handle attached and rest it on top of the spring again, bear down and engage the threads; while maintaining down pressure, gently rotate the cap using the ratchet. If the cap resists, stop and make sure the cap is square to the threads. A cross-threaded fork cap is difficult and expensive to repair.

8. Fork caps need to be tight, but not crazy-tight. Tighten them (and the pinch bolts) using a torque wrench.

9. If you remove both fork caps at the same time and the jack drifts, your bike is going to fall over. Either do one leg at a time or make sure the bike is properly supported.

Over the years I've written any number of articles that described, often in excruciating detail, how to prep your bike for a winter layover. Some of you followed my instructions to the letter and come first grass were rewarded with a machine that looked and ran the way it should. Others ignored me and spent a considerable amount of time, money and energy replacing batteries, cleaning carburetors and fuming when you could've been riding. Then there were a few of you who didn't do a damn thing and rode merrily off into the sunset wondering what all the fuss was about in the first place.

All of that made an impact, so until further notice I'm not doing any more "How to Put your Bike Away for the winter" stories. However, I do believe in presenting both sides of most issues, so I'm going to step aside now and let my cousin Zippy take over. Although I've interjected comments where I felt clarification was in order, I gave Zippy free reign to speak his mind, or at least what's left of it. Bear in mind that Zip is not a professional mechanic-hell, he's not a mechanic or a professional of any kind, so his theories are at best suspect. Like they say-the opinions presented here are not necessarily those held by the management. -MZ

The Zipper Speaks:
I think cleaning your bike under any circumstances is downright silly. A good coating of road grime combined with rust and corrosion gives your ride a salty look that says, "I'm a real biker who's too busy riding to clean my motorcycle." It'll also seal the paint and any polished pieces with a coat of oxidation to protect them. Over the winter the crud will combine with moisture to give the bike a really nice patina. To carry the look off you'll need to practice saying, "It'll get washed when it rains" with a sneer. Clean bikes are for pansies anyway. If you feel guilty about not washing your ride, think of all the cash you're saving on soap and wax and how proud of you Al Gore would be for not wasting precious water resources on something as frivolous as a motorcycle.

Next, make sure you stash the bike with an empty gas tank. That'll let moisture condense in there and prevent any fires. So what if the water contaminates the tank and fuel system? If it's motorcycle adventure you want, that's the easiest way to get it! I mean, what's more adventurous than leaving home on a bike that's practically guaranteed to have you stranded by the side of the road with a contaminated carburetor, plugged fuel line or ruined injector? won't it be exciting to hit the road wondering how far you'll get, how many cylinders the bike will be running on when you get there or even if you'll get there at all? Besides, just consider how much time and money you'll save when the thing finally goes terminal and refuses to start. Then you can get back to the important things in life like watching Dancing with the Has-Beens instead of riding.

Oh yeah, the very last thing you'll want to do is add fuel stabilizer to the tank. See, when a bike is parked for any length of time the gasoline starts to turn into something like a root beer gummy bear that's been left in the sun too long. I know motorcycles don't run real well on sugar and glucose syrup, especially when it's gooey, but converting gasoline to gummy bears is an interesting experiment in the transformation of matter.

Adding fuel stabilizer prevents the little gummies from invading your carburetors, and if that happens there's absolutely no reason to take it apart in the spring and give it a good cleaning, let alone replace the jets, float valves or anything that's too gooey to work. So not only are you depriving yourself of a good education in carburetor overhaul, you're actually preventing guys who clean carbs from making a living. And consider for a moment what it does to the local motorcycle shop's bottom line. If there's not a flood of bikes that need carburetor cleanings in the spring, how will the owner and his favorite secretary pay for their next trip to Vegas?

Changing the oil before stashing your bike is another bad idea. Used oil has all sorts of neat stuff in it. There are tiny particles of grit, water and acid all floating around looking for mischief. Normally the junk just hangs out not having a whole lot of fun. But when you park the bike-especially when the oil is nice and dirty-those particles drop out and form little communities of dirt and sludge in there, like little crappy neighborhoods, and when the crud drops out it rejuvenates the oil. So basically if you let an engine sit with dirty oil in it, the oil cleans itself. Besides, when the engine is restarted it'll get swept up again anyway, so why worry about it? Maybe you'll end up with an etched bearing or cam surface or a little pocket of sludge someplace, but chances are there won't be a whole lot of damage-at least none that can't be fixed by a good mechanic and a small bank loan. Also, who wants to waste good money on oil when you're not even going to be riding for a few months?

In fact, that whole fluid-inspection thing is vastly overrated. Sure, antifreeze goes bad, but if the stuff in your bike has been working for three years why would it go bad now? Besides, checking it is a real hassle. you've got to take the cap off the tank, stick a hydrometer in there and figure out what the numbers mean. who needs that when Real Sex is on HBO and there's a cold six-pack in the fridge! Hell, if the stuff is still green let it go-what's the worst that could happen if it does freeze? It's not like the block will crack or anything. will it?.

It's kind of like that brake-fluid change thing everyone's always harping on. So what if the fluid gets water in it-water's cheaper than brake fluid, right? And the brakes will still work, maybe not as well as they did when the fluid was new, but how hard do you use them anyway? As for rust damage in the master cylinder and calipers, well, that's why they make rebuild kits. I say run the stuff until the brakes puke and then rebuild them.

This whole "service it before you put it away for the winter" thing is out of control. Jeez, some of these guys even put duct tape or steel wool into the pipes and air inlet to keep mice and rats from getting in. Really, how many times have you heard of a mouse getting in somewhere it doesn't belong? And even if they do build a nest in your air cleaner, sheesh, have a little compassion for our rodent friends!

Here's my take on it: The bike is only going to be laid up for, what, three or four months? Just park the thing and if it doesn't start or run in the spring, call the local shop to pick it up and straighten everything out. Heck, most of the dealers in my neck of the woods only take a month or two and charge maybe five or six hundred bucks-a grand, tops-to get a bike running. The primo riding weather doesn't get here until July anyway. Ride the thing until it stops, and then fix what you can to get 'r going again. That's what I do, and my bike usually runs on both cylinders-at least half the time I ride it. Of course if you listen to my smartass cousin he'll tell you it should run good all the time, but he's one of those guys who actually believes what it says in the shop manual about routine maintenance being a cornerstone of reliability.

Honda VTX 1300C

Caretaker: Cherney
Odometer: 3660
Miles Ridden this Cycle: 547
Modifications:
* Race Tech Suspension Rework
http://www.RaceTech.com
* Memphis Shades Install
http://www.memphisshades.com

After several shipping snafus, we finally worked out the kinks on our National Cycle Peacemakers exhaust and got the unit properly rigged.

On the plus side, the sound-volume feature works exactly as advertised: the pipes run nearly as quiet as stock (with just a touch more texture) with the handlebar-mounted toggle switch in the up position. Pressing the toggle downward (on the fly) opens the baffles on cue, and the aural stimulation comes on with a noticeable whomp. The volume in the open/loud position isn't too painful either, the pipe's build quality seems solid and the included slash tips look attractive. But while we think the Peacemakers represent a pretty cool concept, there is the dilemma of rejetting to compensate for what are essentially two different exhaust profiles.

Proof came in the form of a dyno run-we found that we'd lost several horsepower, especially in the quiet setting. It wasn't a surprise, since we'd done no mods to the airbox nor a carb rejet. When we do rejet in the future, we'll do it for the closed (quiet) position, since this would presumably be closest to stock.

At $599, the Peacemakers are priced in line with other systems on the market. So if sound quality rather than pure performance is your primary goal, these are the ticket.

As for the VTX, we also mounted a Memphis Shades Pop Top shield, whose 16-inch height proved handy for pushing aside air on freeway runs (at least from my chest). That said, it did nothing to improve helmet buffeting at high speeds, and it isn't adjustable (though it is detachable with the right hardware).

Finally, Race Tech fine-tuned the rear suspension one last time to my dimensions and weight, and the VTX isn't as stiff now, yet still tracking stably out back. Tweaking the suspension is by far the most satisfying mod we've made to the bike thus far. Shame I gotta return it.

Part I - Know Before You Go

You've taken the MSF course, skipped the last two summer vacations and convinced the wife nothing's going to better fulfill your life than a set of new wheels. You're ready to plunk down hard-earned cash, but not exactly sure what to expect from the process-or even where to begin. We've compiled a few tips here that will hopefully take some of the guesswork out of the ordeal.

A. Target-Fixate
This, of course, presumes you've already narrowed down the type of motorcycle you plan to ride. While a new bike is often an emotional purchase, sometimes it pays to get practical, too. Once you look at needs rather than wants, you'll narrow things down even more.

Prime considerations:
1. The kind of riding you'll do (i.e. commuting vs. touring). For instance: How long is your commute? Is good gas mileage important? Will you be carrying a passenger?
2. Features: Engine size, options and styling. Unfortunately, too many people skip the previous step and jump to this one. Of course, looks are important, but consider ergonomics as well. The right height, reach and weight count for huge piece of mind as well as comfort.
3. Cost: Let's face it-a good chunk of shoppers buy solely on price. We're not fans of this approach, but if you're determined to crunch numbers, consider true operating costs as well as sticker price. Things like monthly payments, maintenance, insurance and fuel can add up. There's a reason 750-900cc bikes are among the most popular cruiser models year after year: they're invariably the cheapest to own; they don't use much gas, they don't cost a lot to insure and their relatively simple design keeps repair bills low.

B. Dig Up the Dirt
As you'd expect with any big-ticket item, you'll have to log some hours doing homework. That means digging up all you can about the bikes on your short list and figuring out where to shop for them.

In the Internet age, you can cover more ground more effectively online. The tried-and-true hunting grounds are still viable:

Cycle Trader, the Recycler and eBay Motors, (the first two have print versions as well as Web sites) are great sources for gathering ideas of what's available. Craigslist is also an option, but because it's fairly unregulated, it's hit or miss. You can find parts and accessories at these places, too:
* http://www.motors.ebay.com
* http://www.cycletrader.com
* http://www.recycler.com

For hard information on models, a Web site that's proven fairly reliable is Bikez.com. It has a comprehensive list of bikes from 1970 to the current model year, with a listing of specs for each. You can compare specs between models, too.
* http://www.bikez.com

The Motorcycle Cruiser Web site is a treasure trove of information. Our full tests, first rides and class comparisons can help you make that crucial choice, and the 2008 Buyer's Guide in this issue can give you a feel for the latest trends in the cruiser world.
* http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com

Whatever model you're looking at, check its reliability-read maintenance histories of model lines or engines as well as any idiosyncrasies that might be common knowledge among current owners. If the reviews say the bike is notorious for rattles or leaks, then maybe you should move on.

The Delphi forums (under Motor Transport) are a great resource, as is Epinions (under Motorcycles), though the latter isn't as comprehensive.
* http://www.delphiforums.com
* http://www.epinions.com

If you're checking strictly for price, NADA Guides is the place to go.Kelley Blue Book also has a Motorcycle Values tab that's a good alternative, although it's not as intuitive or comprehensive.
* http://www.nadaguides.com
* http://www.kbb.com

C. Seal the Deal
At this point, maybe a few bikes still fit your criteria. Narrow it down further by visiting a couple of dealerships. Get multiple bids from different dealers. By now, you should have a good idea of the average selling price for the models-useful for some leverage. The more flexible you can be about specifics-such as paint or installed options-the wider the range of the bikes you can choose from. Ultimately, the ability to consider several versions of the same model can give you additional bargaining power.

Buying during the winter is often a smart move because sales are slow and dealers are trying to get rid of last year's stock.

Test rides are crucial, and if you can score one, by all means do so-even if you're not sure the bike you'll be test-riding is the one you'll end up with. It's a good idea to do all your tests in one morning or afternoon. Riding bikes back to back will help you uncover even minor differences, which makes for a more educated purchase decision.

So, now you're ready to whip out the wallet and pay cash, right? Or not-most of us just don't have that much cash laying around. In some cases, you can take advantage of incentives like rebates or low-interest financing. But don't just take the financing at the dealership; check for better rates from your local bank or credit union.

Got that? OK, now you can sign the papers, thumb the starter and hit the road.

Part II - Read Your Dealer

The Aug. '07 issue, we walked you through the nuts and bolts of buying a bike. That article addressed everything from filling out paperwork to adjusting levers but neglected to cover one of the most important aspects of any motorcycle purchase, namely establishing a good working relationship with your dealership. For this issue, we aim to rectify that oversight by sitting down with three different dealer principals. Our conversation uncovered the mistakes customers make, what every customer has a right to expect from the dealership and, similarly, what the dealership expects in return.

To ensure candor, no names or locations are mentioned, just general descriptions of the shops' demographics and product lines.

Shop No. 1 is a large Harley-Davidson/Buell dealership, selling 500-600 bikes a year in an area with both affluent and blue-collar customers.

Shop No. 2 is a moderate-sized multiline dealership, carrying Honda, Yamaha and Suzuki motorcycles. The majority of its customers are young sportbike or off-road riders, but it sells a fair amount of cruisers as well.

Shop No. 3 is a Eurocentric "destination" dealership, carrying BMW, Ducati and MV Augusta, catering to riders who are, for the most part, extremely well heeled.

All three are successful, professionally run operations that enjoy good reputations and have loyal customer bases. All of them emphasized that without a strong repeat customer base they'd be out of business. Their answers go a long way toward explaining what it takes to make the dealership/customer relationship a good one.

MCC-When it comes to buying a new bike, what's the typical customer's biggest mistake?
The single biggest mistake most customers make is to focus solely on price, and pit one dealership against another simply to save a buck. As Dealer No. 2 explained, "We need at least a 10 percent profit on new-bike sales to provide good service and to stay in business. If I slash prices (on new bikes), I have to make up the loss somewhere else. If a guy is blowing out bikes at cost, he can't possibly provide the same level of service I can." He added, "If a customer buys his bike elsewhere to save a few bucks and then comes here for warranty work, we'll be happy to do it, but our customers come first, so he'll be at the back of the line."

Dealer No. 3 said that the second biggest mistake customers make is to focus on one model. In many cases, they're reluctant to discuss their needs with the salespeople. "Often a potential customer picks the wrong bike for his needs, based on a magazine article or what his friends are riding. Too many guys come in to buy a 1098, when what they really will have the most fun riding is a Multistrada or even a GS BMW. They buy the wrong bike and then lose interest, so they miss out on the fun and we lose a customer."

MCC-What should the customer expect from the dealership?
Besides a certain level of competency, every customer should be treated with respect, courtesy and, above all, honesty from every member of a dealership's staff. But as our H-D dealer pointed out, don't expect miracles. If you show up on a Saturday when the showroom is packed, chances are you're going to be cooling your heels for a while. But, he added, when it is your turn, you're entitled to the salesperson's (or any other employee's) undivided attention.

MCC-Conversely, what does the dealership expect from the customer?
For starters, dealers would like you to be completely honest. If you're not ready to buy, let them know. Salespeople are paid on commission, so while asking questions is fine, spending an hour leading them to believe you're serious when you aren't takes them away from other customers and reduces their income.

Secondly, good dealerships welcome feedback. If you're unhappy, politely let the owner know and give him a chance to rectify the situation. Going away mad doesn't solve your problem, and if he doesn't know what went wrong, chances are good it'll happen again.

MCC-What constitutes a "problem customer"?
We expected this question to open up a floodgate, but our dealers-to a man-insisted that 99.9 percent of their customers were fair, reasonable people. When pressed, they described a problem customer as someone who has unrealistic expectations or assumes he'll be given some sort of special treatment.

Interestingly, Dealer No. 1 opined that a problem customer is one who refuses to have his bike serviced according to the manufacturer's schedule. This dealer felt that too many of his customers didn't have maintenance done on a regular basis, and then complained when their bikes failed to run properly, or they were hit with bills for repairs that wouldn't have been necessary if the bike had been serviced in a timely manner.

MCC-The flip side of that question would be: At what point do you decide a customer is more trouble than he's worth?
The consensus was that it's always case by case. But dealerships definitely don't feel the love when the customer lies, is disruptive or misrepresents facts. Warning flags also go up when a potential buyer walks through the door badmouthing another dealership. In all cases, the bottom line is this: If you can't turn a profit on a customer, there's not much point in wasting a lot of time on him. This may seem cynical, but dealers do exist to make a profit and the door won't stay open long if they can't. So, if you're obnoxious and cheap, you can expect the brush. (As a postscript, Dealer No. 2 told us that when a customer comes in with an attitude, he likes to see if he can change his mind. "It's a challenge, but if you can turn the guy around, you might end up with a great customer.")

Five Points
A few simple suggestions should make your next dealership experience that much better.

1. Treat the staff with the same courtesy and respect that you expect to receive from them.
2. Be open to suggestion-a professional salesperson should be able to help you pick a bike that'll best suit your needs.
3. If at any point in the negotiations you feel uncomfortable either with the deal or the dealership, step back and catch your breath. If the issues can't be resolved, shake hands, walk away and find a shop where you feel more comfortable.
4. If you want to negotiate price, by all means do so-that's part of the fun. But don't ask a dealer to give you a rock-bottom price on a current and popular model unless you like being disappointed.
5. If there's a problem after the sale, try and resolve it amicably. More drastic measures can be taken if you reach a dead end.

Facts and figures
Honda has 1200 (give or take a few) dealerships in the United States. Harley-Davidson has 684 U.S. dealerships.

Part III - Insurance

Whether you're buying one of the shiny, new bikes in this issue's 2008 Buyer's Guide or a well-kept used bike, you need insurance.

Think about this: The Insurance Research Council reports that in 2004, nearly 15 percent of drivers were uninsured, with some states having 25 percent or more uninsured drivers. A report by the AAA Foundation shows that unlicensed drivers (no license, revoked or invalid) were five times more likely than licensed drivers to be involved in fatal crashes (and were unlikely to have insurance). It's risky enough out there for us motorcyclists, but against those odds, it's foolish to go without insurance-and almost every state requires you to carry it, anyway.

You need coverage from the moment you finish signing the transfer of ownership documents and fork over the money for your newly purchased motorcycle. Fortunately, insurance companies can provide a "binder" that activates your coverage, starting the policy on the date you request. The binder is usually sent by e-mail or fax; these days, nearly every company has the capability to provide a quote and binder on weekends, too.

Insurance Policy Coverage Basics
The key elements of insurance coverage:First, you must have liability coverage for bodily injury and property damage. It comes in to play when you cause an accident and injure other people and property. It does not cover your own injuries or motorcycle damage.

Uninsured/underinsured motorist coverage (both bodily injury and property damage) is your protection against the irresponsibility of others. If another motorist injures you or damages your motorcycle, the odds are about 1 in 5 that they will either be completely uninsured or have such low coverage limits that your damages won't be fully reimbursed. This coverage, which you pay for, protects you in just such circumstances.

Comprehensive coverage covers your loss by theft and damage caused by flood, fire or animals.

Collision coverage covers your vehicle loss or damage for accidents you cause, accidents caused by another and accidents caused by circumstances where no one is left to take responsibility (like gravel or a fluid spill in the road).

Let's look at two typical examples to see how it all works. The rates were obtained from real quotes from five large insurance companies.

Bob Smith is 25 years old and has been a licensed motorcyclist for three years. He took a Motorcycle Safety Foundation course, has one speeding ticket, is single, is a renter in Glendale, California, and commutes to work, riding about 5000 miles per year. He owns a 2004 Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom. As a young person with no family and few assets, Bob felt comfortable getting lower coverage limits of $15,000/$30,000/$10,000 liability (per person/all persons per incident/property damage), un/underinsured motorist coverage of $15,000/$30,000 and comprehensive and collision with a $500 deductible (meaning in the event of loss or damage, Bob is responsible for the first $500). The rates ranged from $802 to $1941 per year.

John Doe is 46 years old and has been a licensed motorcyclist for 11 years. He's married, has a clean driving record over the last five years, owns his home in Glendale and rides for pleasure, about 5000 miles per year. He bought a 2008 Kawasaki Vulcan 1600 Nomad. Because John has a family, a home and more personal assets, he chose higher coverage limits of $100,000/$300,000/$50,000 for liability, $100,000/$300,000 un/underinsured motorist coverage and the same $500 deductible for comprehensive and collision coverage. His rate quotes ranged from $675 to $1708 per year.

The range of rates is pretty dramatic, but actually quite typical. The point is that it pays to shop around. However, just like with a motorcycle, you shouldn't buy insurance strictly on price. Examine things like a company's claims history, complaint history and availability if you're involved in an accident.

There aren't many things you can do to lower your insurance rate, but one of the best ways is to take an MSF riding course. Most companies give a discount for three years or longer that will more than justify the cost of the course, and the course will improve your riding skills.

A note about motorcycle value: Motorcycle insurance policies vary as to what is covered in the event of loss or damage, whether it's just the motorcycle or also accessories attached to the motorcycle. Ask the agent and read the policy carefully. We've seen policies that cover no accessories, $2000 worth and even as much as $7000 worth at no extra charge. If you've ladled on $10,000 worth of parts, you'll want to price the extra cost for covering them.

When comparing rate quotes, make sure they have identical coverage limits, and be truthful-insurance companies will access databases with your driving history, and if it turns out you have lied on something material-whether you've had accidents, for instance-they may simply ask you to pay the difference, but they can also terminate your coverage for cause. Finally, make sure you always carry proof of insurance either in your wallet or under the seat.

I've always been fascinated by printed motorcycle advertisements, the sizzle in most cases being as interesting to me as the steak. While I enjoy reading through black-and-white magazine ads from the '50s and '60s, the ones that really grab me are the old, poster-sized broadsheets manufacturers supplied to their dealers to brighten up dingy showroom walls. I value those mostly for nostalgia's sake, and because they appeal to my taste in art-which normally favors things like pictures of poker-playing dogs.

One of my favorites is from the early '30s. It depicts a stylishly dressed young woman pounding an Ariel single down an English lane. Since she's wearing white silk stockings, I have to assume that her Ariel did a better job of containing its oil than those I rode in later years, but no matter, it's still a pretty picture. The ad, which has no text other than a banner reading "The Modern Motorcycle of 1930," manages to convey a sense of fun and freedom, with the implication that the bike is reliable and easy to operate.

I'm also fond of a Matchless advertisement from 1939 done in the Bauhaus style. In shades of gray and red, it portrays a lone rider moving quickly across a blurred background. There is no text, but there doesn't need to be. The art suggests speed and grace with a subtle undertone of, I don't know, danger or foreboding? Whether the artist was influenced by the gathering war clouds or I'm just reading more into it than I should is debatable, but there's certainly a story being told.

Granted, the older ads tended toward a certain amount of puffery. For instance, Royal Enfield's claim that its 750cc Interceptor was the "World's Most Beautiful" motorcycle and Triumph's assertion that it made "The Best Motorcycle in the World" had to be taken with a grain of salt-though no more so than any current ad suggesting ownership of a given brand will magically transform your otherwise humdrum life into something exhilarating.

The hype wasn't always about glamour; many older ads played up the practical side of motorcycling. Harley-Davidson ran an ad in the late '50s touting one of their 125cc two-stroke econobikes that featured a smiling assembly line worker commuting to the factory, lunch box strapped to the luggage rack, "for just pennies a day." Given its penchant for repeating history, it's surprising that Milwaukee no longer builds a 125 or uses economy as a selling point.

Image-conscious manufacturers went to great lengths to portray motorcycling in a positive light, so the riders of the day were always depicted as well-groomed and nattily dressed. In England, everyone apparently wore ties or ascots, while Europeans favored fluttering silk scarves. In the U.S.-where riding always had an air of hooliganism around it-men and women often appeared wearing club uniforms composed of riding breeches, collared shirts, neckties and, of course, a cap. By the '60s, the uniform of the day had changed to chinos and madras shirts for the men and Capri pants and not-too-tight sweaters for the women, but everyone was still clean cut and wholesome. This culminated with Honda's "You meet the nicest people" campaign-an advertising coup that literally kick-started the motorcycle revolution in the U.S. during the '60s.

Apparently, all that's changed. Today's male riders are manly man-type rugged individuals, all wearing black designer T-shirts, a three-day beard and a scowl, and the women are either the opening act at the Badda Bing lounge or own a leather fetish store.

Renowned British motor-cycle engineer Bert Hopwood once commented, tongue in cheek, that "as our product deteriorated, the advertising took on a new sophistication." At the time, Bert was referring to a series of ads featuring some rather comely young women in various states of undress perched provocatively on BSA motorbikes. Whether or not the money spent on advertising would have been better utilized by Hopwood's R&D team to improve those old crocks is debatable, but the ads were certainly eye-openers and no doubt sold a few more bikes than BSA deserved.

Lately, I've encountered a few ads that make me wonder if the people responsible for creating them might not be better suited to another type of work.

Case in point: a current ad hawking a line of high-end customs. This one features a well-known custom builder tooling through a turn on one of his creations in a rather squid-like manner. He's wearing a baseball cap (backward, of course), T-shirt, shorts and sneakers, topped off with knee-high socks. Now, if that's your normal riding attire, more power to you and good luck. But frankly, I find it hard to take anyone like that very seriously, especially when they're selling a limited-production motorcycle that retails for upward of 30 large.

I suppose my real problem with that one is that in the end, all ads are grist for our fantasy mills, and I prefer my fantasies-at least the ones concerning motorcycles-to be about something other than looking like a dork and paying big money to do it.

Q&A
Tube Trouble
QI ride a VTX 1300S, which has spoke wheels, and therefore tube tires. I've never had a blow-out, but I know people who have, and the prospect of trying to deal with a flat in the middle of nowhere, hundreds of miles from the nearest bike shop, has always worried me. My friends who ride on tubeless tires can at least carry tire plugs for emergency repairs, but would that do me any good? Is there anything I can do to make an emergency repair short of actually taking off the wheel and hauling out the tube for a patch job? With today's high-tech cruisers and touring bikes, that's always struck me as a hopeless undertaking for anyone but a seasoned mechanic.AP SchroederVia e-mail

A Good question, Schroeder-I wish I had a better answer for you. Since an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, I'd suggest that the best defense against flats is the, uh, prophylactic approach.

As a tire wears, it becomes more susceptible to puncture (obviously a bald tire is the worst in that regard), so I'd urge you to inspect your tires on a regular basis and replace them when they begin to show significant wear. I'd also recommend installing the best tubes money can buy when-ever you mount a new tire. Heavy-duty tubes are available from several sources, Michelin, Metzeler and Continental being just three that come to mind, and while they're more expensive than garden-variety liners, it's money well spent.

You may also want to consider using a sealer, like SLIME (www.slime.com), as a preventative measure. Obviously a sealer won't prevent a flat, but in the unfortunate event that you puncture a tire, it'll at least help the tube hold air until you can get it properly repaired. As a side issue, because sealers prevent a punctured tire from going flat, a tire that's been so treated should also be inspected more regularly, just to ensure nothing sharp is poking through.

Finally, if you do get a flat, try using an aerosol repair like Flat Fix to affect a temporary repair. Unless the tube is really shredded, a can or two should seal the puncture long enough to get the bike off the road and into a repair shop.

BMW BS
Q I currently ride a Harley- Davidson Sportster, but I am considering getting a new bike. I was looking at the BMW R 1150 R (which is no longer being produced, so I would buy used). However, the BMW dealer said that I would have to bring in the bike at every service to have error codes read. Is this really necessary, or is it something you can do yourself? I like to do all my own maintenance to save money.Andrew Carlson Via e-mail

A Carlson, please send me the name of your local BMW dealer, so I know where not to go. The 1150R is like anything else with EFI. As long as it's running properly, it won't throw any codes, so on the face of it, the dealer's statement is just silly. That said, the ABS/Integral brake systems can be a little tricky to work on, especially when it comes to changing the fluid and bleeding the system, (special tools are required), so you'll want that end of it done by a dealer. And, of course, the EFI requires special tools and knowledge. Those issues aside, in most regards BMWs are no more difficult to work on than anything else. Provided you've got a few hand tools, a service manual and some common sense, you should be able to perform the routine maintenance and day-to-day adjustment-type stuff on your own.

Dyna Dilemma
Q The rear suspension on my 2005 Dyna Super Glide bottoms out too much on rough roads and corners. I would like to raise and stiffen it a bit for more ground clearance and lean angle, and I plan on installing a set of Progressive HD adjustable shocks. I have already set the preload at maximum. I am hoping to mimic the handling of the Sport model. Will that do it for me, or would you recommend any other changes?Harry SimensonVia e-mail

A The Progressives are a great start, but if you really want that thing to turn and handle, I'd recommend installing a set of matching fork springs and, as a final touch, a set of RaceTech Gold Valve Emulators and the proper weight fork oil. Installing the Emulators will require pulling the front fork apart, and dialing them in might take some experimentation, but the end result will be well worth the effort. I modified a buddy's Heritage a few years back with the setup we're discussing, and the change in handling was phenomenal. One last thought: Since the rear preload is maxed out, you might want to consider installing stiffer rear springs, or maybe a 1-inch-longer shock. (Check out Cherney's long-term VTX installment for more info.)

Level Up
Q I'm just in my second year riding, so I'm still at the stage where lots of stuff is new. I'm trying to find out about checking fluid levels-specifically, should levels be checked when the bike is on its sidestand or sitting upright? My 1997 Honda Shadow Ace has only a sidestand-no centerstand. The owner's manual is not clear. The Haynes manual is silent. I haven't asked a mechanic yet. Is there a general rule?Mark SpenceMilton, OntarioVia e-mail

A Mark, as a general rule, fluids should always be checked with the bike upright and on a level surface.

How-To Pipe Dreams
I've never been wild about aftermarket pipes. In my opinion, most of them produce too much noise and not nearly enough power. Apparently I'm in the minority. The pipe business appears to be booming (no pun intended), and at least half the letters I receive are related to exhaust systems.

Consequently, when HackerPipes asked us to test a version of their "Track-Tuned Header System," I was ambivalent. After all, there was the noise issue, and the last thing I felt the Victory KingPin needed was more power. On the other hand, I realized that a pipe article-particularly one that featured hard numbers-might be of great service to our readers.

What transpired next sealed the deal. During one of our conversations, Hacker's PR guy mentioned that dyno testing wasn't part of their program. In fact, HackerPipes didn't even own a dyno, but based on seat-of-the-pants testing and customer feedback, they felt their pipes made more power than a stock setup.

That got my attention. In August 2003, we ran an article titled "Pipe Dreams," wherein we dyno-tested some of the more popular aftermarket exhausts. The results were interesting to say the least; the majority of pipes delivered less than stellar results. I'd long wanted to do a follow-up.

So I made the guys at Hacker a proposal: If they'd supply the pipe and one of their Anger Management Fuel Modules, I'd install it and do all the tuning-mimicking what an over-the-counter purchaser would do. The catch was that the pipe and fuel module would be the only changes. There'd be no airbox or ignition modifications, and win, lose or draw, we'd report the unvarnished results. To their credit, Hacker agreed.

Step One
To establish baseline numbers, the bone-stock KingPin was delivered to John Tavolacci at Dyno Solutions in Danbury, Connecticut. I chose Dyno Solutions because its only business is dyno testing. John doesn't sell parts, he doesn't build engines and he doesn't offer any sort of tuning services beyond some custom mapping; he simply runs a dyno, and as such, could be counted on to be completely unbiased.

After three pulls we had our numbers and there were no surprises. As you can see from the readout, the KingPin's best run produced 72.95 horsepower and 93.45 lbs.-ft. of torque. While not outstanding, the numbers are healthy and right in the ballpark for a big-inch cruiser. We also sent a copy of the chart to Polaris; they confirmed our King was hale and hearty and our numbers right on the mark.

Baseline
The torque curve (represented by the upper line) is fairly smooth, with just a few hiccups in the delivery. Just above idle we're making over 80 lbs.-ft. of torque, which rises quickly to the maximum of 93.45 lbs.-ft. and, despite some peaks and valleys, stays fairly constant up to 4200 rpm. After that, cylinder filling becomes less efficient and torque starts to drop off. As an aside, the horsepower continues to rise slightly because horsepower is torque multiplied by rpm, and the extra rpm more than compensates for the reduced torque. Similarly, the bottom line representing horsepower shows a nice steady climb toward its maximum of 4500 rpm before leveling off.

With the baseline established, the OEM system was replaced with the HackerPipes Track-Tuned Header and open megaphone, along with the Anger Management Fuel Module. The module was dialed in per the instructions and the bike test-ridden on a 10-mile loop. During the ride, two things became apparent: First, the noise level-while loud by my standards-wasn't totally obnoxious as long as some right-hand restraint was used, and second, the bike was running way too rich at the bottom, but that was something we'd sort out on the dyno.

Dyno run 2
Track-Tuned Header Open Muffler Anger Management Fuel Module (base settings) For the sake of illustration, we made our first dyno pull using my seat-of-the-pants fuel module settings. Surprisingly, things don't look too bad. We picked up 2.58 extra lbs.-ft. of peak torque, and the curve is almost identical to that of the stock pipes. Toward the end of the run there's a drop in horsepower as the bike starts to run rich.

Dyno Run 3
Open Header Corrected Fuel SettingsIn essence, this was a breakeven situation, and with no other modifications the Hacker wasn't going to set the world on fire. But at least it hadn't cost us any real performance; it in fact offered measurable gains in horsepower and torque.

What we have here is a bolt-on pipe that changes the look and sound of the bike and provides a modest performance increase at some points of the powerband. Since it's lighter than the industrial-strength OEM unit, you can also argue that some performance is gained through weight reduction.

Dyno run 4
Quiet option
Knowing that I prefer a quiet exhaust-quiet in this case being relative-Hacker included a traditional reverse cone megaphone that purportedly made less noise and only slightly less power than the open pipe. Replacing the open pipe with the "muffler" took all of three minutes, and they were right-it was noticeably quieter. The bad news was that on the dyno, it folded up like a deerskin wallet.

Compared to the stock pipe (black and red lines), the Hacker (blue and green lines) is behind on both torque and horsepower throughout the entire curve (the only exception being around 2900 where parity is achieved for a few rpm). But from there, it's downhill all the way. Making matters worse is a torque crater at 3500 rpm where the Hacker makes 11 pounds less torque than the stock pipe.

Obviously, any torque loss is cause for concern, but a 12 percent drop is serious business as it negatively affects every aspect of performance. Torque holes like this also make the bike difficult to ride because the power drops off as you accelerate past 3000 rpm, and then it comes back on with a bang at 4000 rpm-which can light up the rear tire if the road is slick. It's entertaining the first time it happens, but after that it's just nerve-wracking.

Initially, we thought fuel mapping might be the problem, but as you can see from the air/fuel chart, the ratios-while not perfect-aren't far off the optimum of 13 to 1. As installed, this combo was unacceptable.

So what's going on?
Neither pipe performed as expected, and in fact the quiet version was downright pitiful. Though we felt we'd honored the test parameters, we also felt that in fairness to HackerPipes we owed them a chance to set things right. So we did the logical thing and removed the airbox lid. The change was dramatic.

Dyno run 5
Quiet Pipe, No AirBox Lid
The green and blue lines represent our first pass with the quiet pipe. Torque and horsepower are down compared to the stock bike, and there's that huge hole at 3500 rpm. The black and red lines show what happens when the airbox cover is removed. With no other changes, power instantly increases, and that gaping hole in the torque curve disappears. Better yet, we pick up torque and horsepower compared to the stock setup and in fact end up making 4.7 more pounds of peak torque-a five percent gain.

With the airbox mod, the HackerPipe isn't bad-there's an overall increase in power and a decent increase in torque. No doubt that if we pursued this tuning avenue we'd see even more of an increase.

Conclusions
So did we learn anything? In truth, no. As we found in our original "Pipe Dreams" test, merely installing an aftermarket pipe isn't going to get you much of a power increase. Understand that modern intake and exhaust systems are extremely well thought out and extensively tested. The OEMs know exactly what they're doing, and any shortcomings are generally the result of EPA meddling. Yes, some extra power may be found by bolting on a new pipe, particularly if you're not overly concerned with current noise and pollution regulations, but don't expect miracles.

Remember the Golden Rule: Changes in either the exhaust or intake affect airflow through the engine, so in most cases a change in one demands a change in the other. Before laying down hard-earned cash, figure out exactly what you hope to gain. If it's simply to make noise or change the way the bike looks, then by all means bolt on a new pipe and cross your fingers; maybe you'll pick up a few ponies, maybe not. However, if your goal is to boost power, chances are you'll need a pipe, fuel module and airbox/air filter modifications before you realize any genuine increases. And even then, you'll be lucky to see a 10 to 15 percent gain.

My last piece of advice: If you really want to know where the bear went in the buckwheat, book some dyno time and quantify your handiwork-anything less is just guessing.

Hacker Pipes
The Good and Not So Good
I don't want to damn with faint praise, but overall the HackerPipes performed as I'd expected. With airbox modifications, we did increase torque and horsepower, and I've no doubt that with a bit more fine-tuning, and perhaps some ignition work, the numbers can go higher. Although I didn't retest the open pipe due to time constraints, I'm willing to bet that with the airbox cover removed it, too, would have shown an improvement over our original test.

On the whole, I'd give the Hackers a "B." Though they don't churn out as much power as I'd like-and in that respect aren't much different from many other aftermarket pipes-they are well-made and easy to install, and, yeah, I'll grudgingly admit that the noise levels are acceptable when some restraint is shown. Furthermore, with a few simple mods, they will produce a measurable increase in torque and horsepower, and that's always a good thing.

Rust Never Sleeps
Every so often some poor schnook needs to know how to remove rust from his fuel tank. The first rule is to never let your fuel tank get rusty in the first place, but with some of the fuel formulations we're pouring into our tanks these days, rust is almost an inevitable side effect of riding. So how do you clean a tank quickly and easily? Simple: First drain and remove the tank from the bike (or vice versa if you're the perverse type). Next remove the petcock, fuel pump, fuel gauge, sending unit or anything else that makes its home in the tank and plug up the holes. Pour a quart of WD-40 into the tank, along with a handful of 31/48 nuts. Close off the filler neck with the cap or a plug and start shaking that tank like you ain't got no brains, as Bruce Springsteen might say. In fact you might want to put on some earphones and turn your favorite tune up to 10 to enhance the experience. After about 15 minutes or longer, if the rust warrants it, drain the tank, remove the hardware and flush it with a little fresh gas or brake wash. You can finish the job by coating the tank with a plastic sealant like Kreme, or if it was just surface rust, simply put it back in service. Whatever you do, I'd recommend replacing the fuel filter or adding one if none is present to catch errant rust particles before putting the bike back on the road.-MZ

Honda VTX 1300C
Caretaker: Cherney
Odometer: 3113
Miles Ridden this Cycle: 699
Modifications:
* RaceTech suspension rework
(www.RaceTech.com)
* National Cycle Peacemakers install
www.NationalCycle.com

It figures that the mods I ordered months ago for the VTX would show up all at once-just as I was preparing to return the ol' girl to Honda (the 2007 model year has officially expired).

Tops on the list was the full-bore suspension upgrade RaceTech performed on the VTX's less-than-adequate stock setup. RaceTech's Matt Willey gave us the scoop: "The front end felt mushy due to a soft stock fork spring setup (.6kg/mm overall), so we installed .95kg/mm straight-rate springs. Damping was also poor, so we added Gold Valve Cartridge Emulators to the old-school damping rod forks used on the VTX."

Willey also said the basic emulsion units out back were running light springs, with only 2 inches of useable travel. They couldn't be disassembled, so RaceTech replaced them with a pair of its prototype gas-charged Caddies shocks, with springs, damping and preload set for a 180-200-pound rider.

The change was dramatic-the VTX's slop has been tightened up, and the bike now handles in a much more controlled fashion. Consequently, my butt is spending more time in the seat instead of being pitched out at every bump. Some rear-end harshness is still there, though; Willey says the high-speed compression valving needs to be softened because I'm considerably lighter than the 200-pound rider setup RaceTech dialed in. Looks like an in-house adjustment is in my near future.

Tardy as it was, the National Cycle Metric Peacemakers system also arrived, complete with a switch actuator and the slip-on mufflers. We had it rigged onto the VTX in about an hour (though we're still waiting for a cable to replace the one that got kinked in shipping so we can properly test it).

The Peacemakers allow you to run pipes that can bark or be quiet within the same unit. The secret weapon is a so-called "diverter valve" in the front of the muffler that's controlled by an actuator motor and bar-mounted switch. The valve reroutes exhaust waves through a more (or less) restrictive pathway in the muffler, and volume goes from quiet to loud or visa versa. Soon as we get 'em correctly rigged, we'll hustle over to the dyno to check NC's claim of 10 more peak horsepower than stock. Check motorcyclecruiser.com for updates and details on this and other mods. As for returning the VTX, I believe I'm going to try and stall Honda a while longer...

H-D Road King Custom
Caretaker: Kay
Odometer: 8053
Miles Ridden this Cycle: 495
Modifications:
* DP Brakes pads
* Wheeldock EZ-UP Centerstand
* 2 Wheel Tunes music system

The 'King returned to our H-D friends a bit earlier than plan-ned, but not before I did some significant testing on the following:

We slapped on DP Brakes Harley-Davidson replacement pads front and rear. The rear provided better brake modulation, and the overall stopping power was slightly better than the stock pads.

Next, we bolted on a Wheeldock EZ-Up Centerstand in minutes, just as advertised. Leverage is good, so that even lighter-weight riders can get the bike up on the stand. It's also excellent for performing cleaning and maintenance tasks that don't require wheel removal.

Finally, we tested the 2 Wheel Tunes music system, consisting of a small amplifier, proprietary speakers and a music player mount. Add your favorite MP3 player and you're set. Sound quality is remarkably good, but hearing that sound varies with road speed, use of earplugs and whether your helmet faceshield is open or closed. In other words, your mileage may vary. Also, the system is limited because MP3 players are hard to use while moving and even harder-or impossible-to use while wearing gloves. Thanks to Creative Labs for providing the ZEN V Plus and ZEN Vision:M players used in testing

Victory Kingpin
Caretaker: Zimmerman
Odometer: 3379
Miles Ridden this Cycle: 2635
Modifications:
* HackerPipes install
(www.HackerPipes.com)

Pity the poor KingPin, it hasn't been an easy life. First I hammered the thing over hill and dale chasing AC through the mountains of Vermont. Next, it was 16 straight dyno runs testing the HackerPipes detailed elsewhere in this issue. In between were numerous day trips, including an all-out dash to the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome in upstate New York. I also did a run to the Hagerstown round of the AMA Grand National Dirt Track Series, which added somewhere between 750 and 1000 miles to the odometer.

Through it all, the Pin behaved like a champ. It hasn't needed anything more than routine tire pressure adjustments, and I haven't had to add even a drop of oil. This thing's truly an Energizer Bunny. The only possible downside is that a bike that demands so little attention sometimes gets less than it deserves. I have to keep reminding myself to check things like belt tension and the oil level.

In between riding and futzing around with the exhaust system (see this month's How-To), I haven't had much time to do anything else to the King, nor am I sure there's much else worth doing. A set of driving lights would be nice, though not a necessity as the stock headlight sure worked well enough on the last trip. However, I am considering putting some sort of brake light flasher on the bike. During our Vermont sojourn, Andy mentioned that the taillight, set as it is into the rear fender, was a little difficult to see, particularly in the rain..

Myth: 1. A traditional legend or story, especially one that explains a cultural practice or natural phenomenon 2. A fictitious story 3. An unproven or false belief (Random House/Webster's Dictionary, 4th Edition)

To my way of thinking, myths are among our worst enemies. At best, buying into them can make you look foolish and, at worst, get you seriously hurt or dead. Accordingly, I like to do a little periodic "myth busting" just to keep everyone on their toes. If you accept any of the following as gospel, feel free to make your case, but be forewarned: Your words may come back to haunt you in a future issue.

1 "Loud pipes save lives." I'm not going to say this is the silliest thing I've ever heard, but it's up there. Supporters of this myth tend to use anecdotal evidence to prop it up, usually of the "a truck was about to cut me off when he heard my pipes and veered back into his own lane" type. You can argue this one all you want, but I don't buy it. Maybe your loud pipes startled some poor schlep as you blasted past, causing him to swerve, but if he heard you, why was he about to cut you off in the first place?

Since I've never seen any empirical evidence to support the loud-pipes theory, I'll go on record as saying if anyone can make a case based on scientific results, I'll be happy to run it in the next issue with a full apology.

2 "You can't use synthetic oil in a motorcycle engine; it'll make the bearings skid and wipe out the motor." The theory here is that synthetic oil is so slippery that it prevents the rolling elements of ball and roller bearings from turning. It's an interesting idea, but like most myths, it's just a lot of smoke. The fact is that synthetic oil is no more "slippery" than any other oil, and using it in a roller-bearing engine won't cause the least bit of harm.

3 "Don't use the front brake-it'll toss you over the handlebars." This is the oldest one on the books, and I seriously doubt anyone still believes it, but I had to include it for old time's sake. My guess is this tale got started back in the days of dirt roads, when a good squeeze on the front brake lever could lock the front wheel and cause a slide. Why it persisted as long as it did says a lot about people's willingness to believe a good story despite evidence to the contrary.

4 "Always burn high-octane gas-your bike will make more power." This one certainly sounds plausible, but here's why it isn't: From an energy-producing standpoint, there's not much difference between high- and low-octane gas. However, high-octane fuel is formulated to resist detonation, and as such it's less volatile, meaning it's harder to ignite and burns slower than low-octane fuel. When an engine is designed to run on regular, the anti-detonation characteristics of high-test gas can work against it to cause hard starting, poor idling and, in some cases, reduced power. The truth is that burning high-test gas in an engine that doesn't require it is a waste of money and may actually reduce power.

5 "Never use anti-seize (or grease) on a nut or bolt-it'll make the threads slick, and they'll come loose." Like most myths, this one illustrates a fundamental misunderstanding of certain realities.

Think of a bolt as a spring; when it's tightened, it stretches slightly and applies a predetermined clamping force to whatever you're trying to hold together. To do its job properly, the bolt must be properly torqued to a predetermined value. When hardware is assembled dry, some torque is used up overcoming friction between the threads. This generally leads to an undertorqued-read that as loose-bolt. Lubricating a fastener will reduce friction as the bolt is tightened and provide the proper torque setting. So unless the manufacturer states otherwise (and there are instances where they will), always lightly oil a threaded fastener before installing it.

As you can see, most myths appear to have some basis in reality, and that's what makes them dangerous. They're also a way to explain the unexplainable without doing a whole lot of research. Since our ancestors had no way of knowing what actually caused thunder, they accepted that it was formed by Thor riding through the heavens in a cart pulled by fire-snorting goats.

The problem is that accepting a myth at face value often has unpleasant repercussions. In the past, it sometimes meant sacrificing a virgin or two to appease the gods, while in modern times, it may mean spending the rest of your life hooked to a feeding tube 'cause you bought into a really dumb myth like "helmets kill more riders than they save." Which, I suppose, is a form of human sacrifice after all, isn't it?

The Old High-Low Game
Q I ride a 2005 Nomad, the successor to my 2003 Mean Streak, on which I spent 34,000 extremely pleasant miles. Kawasaki recommends for both bikes a fuel octane rating in excess of 90. A friend who rides a 2005 Gold Wing was told by his Honda dealer that he could run the low-octane (and lower-priced) gasoline found at our local establishments without any problems. My dealer said much the same: Use the 87-octane, and if it pings a little, bump up to the next grade. Both dealers said it wasn't necessary to run the high-octane stuff. If the lower-octane fuel won't harm the engines, why do the manufacturers recommend the high-octane stuff?Larry E. WhitesideDurango, COVia e-mail

A Excellent question, Larry. Because the OEMs don't know how hard a given bike will be ridden, they like to err on the side of safety when it comes to anything that could cause damage and increase warranty claims. Hence, they'll often recommend a higher octane than may be strictly necessary, just in case detonation does become an issue. In this case I agree with your dealer: Run the lowest octane you can find that doesn't detonate. In addition to saving a few shekels at the pump, you may be pleasantly surprised to find your bike starts better, idles smoother and may even make a bit more power on regular than it does on high test. (See this month's Tech Matters column to see why.)

How long?
Q I enjoy reading your column in Motorcycle Cruiser; I always learn something new. I was wondering about the longevity of some motorcycle engines. About how long does the Harley-Davidson Twin Cam engine last before needing a rebuild? When a rebuild is required, what normally needs to be fixed to get it back in good condition? In comparison, how long would a liquid-cooled, four-cylinder Japanese engine like the one in the Yamaha FJR1300 last? What would need to be repaired should a rebuild be required? Thanks for your time and input.AndrewVia e-mail

A Any engine's life expectancy is based on the way it's broken in, used and maintained. Assuming both engines are kept dead stock, properly broken in and maintained in accordance with the factory schedule, I'd expect either one to last damn near for-ever. Obviously things do go wrong, so there's always the possibility that something unusual will surface, but in general, either engine should last hundreds of thousands of miles.

If either engine did require a rebuild, I'd expect to replace the same parts in both-pistons, rings, main bearings, valves and guides, etc. After all, both engines are four-strokes, so they use the same parts (although obviously the Yamaha has more of them). The Yamaha is somewhat of a ringer, though, because its transmission shares its oil supply with the engine. That being the case, it's possible that contaminated engine oil, say, from a worn-out bearing, could damage some of the transmission components. That scenario can't occur on the HD because its transmission is housed in its own case, with a dedicated oil supply.

Ok, So Maybe Not That Worried...Q I I have a brand-new 2006 Honda VT750cc Shadow Aero. It's a 745cc SOHC, three-valves-per-cylinder V-twin. The service manual says to check valve clearance at 600 miles, 0.006-inch intake, 0.008-inch exhaust, two intake valves, one exhaust (stated right on the frame under the seat!). After reading your article on valve adjustment on the Motorcycle Cruiser Web site, I thought I'd give it a try, especially when the dealer told me the adjustment wasn't included in the $60 first service. He also said a valve adjustment would be $250! I can believe it, because to get valve covers off you have to remove the seat, tank, air hoses, etc. My problem is that I'm not sure what the clearance is with the feeler gauges-it wasn't as straightforward as I thought. I think the valve lash is a little tight (maybe 0.004 inch plus or minus), and I'm a little worried, but not $250 worth of worried. Is it common for new bikes to have tight clearances? Particularly Hondas?Dave HunterVia e-mail

A Yeah, Dave, it is normal for a new bike's valves to tighten up a bit. As the new engine is run, the valves tend to pound into their seats; this causes a slight loss of clearance and is entirely normal. For the novice, valve adjustment can be a little tricky, mainly because it does take some experience in using a feeler gauge to develop just the right "feel." Until you develop that feel, I'd suggest using what's called a Go NoGo feeler gauge, available at any tool supplier or auto-parts store, to set the valves. Go NoGo gauges are stepped or graduated. When the adjustment is correct, the first portion of the gauge will slide freely, yet the second portion won't. For example, on your intake valve you'd use a Go NoGo gauge that had a leaf stepped from 0.006 to 0.008. When the adjustment was correct, the 0.006 portion of the gauge would slide freely, while the second portion, the 0.008, would stick. As an alternative you could also double-check the valve using two separate gauges, an 0.006 and, say, an 0.007 or 0.008. If the 0.006 slips in, and the 0.007 or 0.008 doesn't, you're good to go.

>strong>The Four-Stroke Internal Combustion Engine - How-To
Fundamentally, there's not a whole lot of differences between a one-lung lawn mower engine and MotoGP World Champion Nicky Hayden's hand-built V-5 Honda. Both engines employ the same basic architecture and operate according to the same easy-to-understand physical laws. The only real difference is in the details, so once you grasp the basics, the rest is easy. Here's the lowdown on how a four-stroke internal combustion engine works.

One Piece At A Time
Mechanical devices are easier to understand when they're reduced to their components. Hell, even the space shuttle starts as a single bolt, so let's begin by taking a look at a typical four-stroke engine's major components

Crankcase
The crankcase houses the crankshaft and, in a traditional pushrod engine, the camshaft. It also accommodates secondary mechanisms like the oil pump (and water pump if needed), the alternator rotor and stator and sometimes the ignition system. In most instances, the clutch, primary drive and transmission also reside in the crankcase, with the major exceptions being Harley-Davidson FLs, BMWs and Moto Guzzis, all of which have their transmissions bolted to the engine, automotive style.

Crankshaft
The purpose of the crankshaft is to change the reciprocating motion of the piston into rotary motion and to feed energy into the clutch and transmission. Think of a bicycle pedal crank and you'll have a pretty good idea of how one works.

There are two types of crankshafts, the assembly, or "built up," type, which is made up of right- and left-hand crankshaft halves assembled onto a crank journal or pin, and the unit, or one-piece, crankshaft, which is forged or machined out of a single chunk of iron or steel. As a rule, built-up cranks use roller bearings and one-piece rods, while unit cranks use plain bearings and two-piece, or "split," rods. Harley-Davidson FL and XL motors use built cranks (as they have since their inception), while more, uh, current designs tend to go with unit cranks.

Because you've got a lot of parts thrashing around at high speeds, the crank assembly needs to be accurately balanced-if it isn't, it'll shake itself and the rest of the motorcycle, including the rider, to pieces in short order. Modern engines incorporate a balance shaft to counteract the crankshaft forces and reduce vibration.

Connecting Rod
The connecting rod connects the piston to the crankshaft. Because the rod swivels in relation to the piston and the crankshaft, it's fitted with a bearing at either end. The small-diameter end of the rod connects to the piston and normally has a plain bushing, while the larger-diameter end is mounted to the crankshaft and utilizes either a roller bearing (H-D X and F motors) or a plain-insert-type bearing (everyone else)

Rod materials include aluminum, steel billet and, in some high-performance applications, titanium. In most cases, the rods are either forged or machined from stock, although the latest technology uses a procedure called "powder metallurgy, " which is a sintering process that uses high pressures and temperatures to create extremely strong, light and expensive rods out of metal powder.

Roller bearing rods are built in one piece and installed during the crankshaft assembly process, while split rods have removable end-caps that allow them to be installed over the crankshaft. When sintered rods are used, the end-cap is separated from the rod body by fracturing, which results in an uneven mating surface. When the rod is installed, the slightly jagged ends ensure a perfect cap-to-rod alignment, compared to the minor misalignments that can occur if the mating surfaces are both flat. As I recall, the late BMW CL models used fractured rods, but I can't think of any cruisers currently using them.

Piston, Rings And Wrist PinThe piston is used to compress the mixture in the cylinder and to transfer the energy of the expanding gases to the crankshaft. Since they're subject to extremes in heat, pressure and acceleration, pistons need to be extremely durable and constructed to very high standards. Consider a Honda VTX1800 that's turning 3,000 rpm. At those speeds, its pistons travel 34 feet per second, with a piston crown temperature that averages 600 degrees Fahrenheit.

Most pistons are either cast or forged out of aluminum alloy, although some high-performance versions are machined out of aluminum billet. For years, cast pistons were at the bottom of the performance food chain, but the introduction of the "Hypereutectic" cast piston (look it up on Wikipedia) has changed that perception. Currently, most production motor-cycles use some form of Hypereutectic piston, and they hold up extremely well.

The piston is fastened to the connecting rod by the wrist pin, which in turn is held in place by spring steel clips or, sometimes in high-performance applications, by aluminum or Teflon buttonsz

Cylinders
The cylinder's function is rather obvious: It acts as a guide for the piston and contains the expanding combustion gases. What's less obvious is how it's put together. Unless they're for a very special application, cylinders are made from one-piece aluminum castings that have either a steel sleeve called a liner pressed into it or utilize special hard-metal "chrome" plating.

Pressed-sleeve cylinders have been around since Hector was a pup and continue to work well. They're inexpensive to build and can be easily overbored or relined in the event of damage, or to facilitate the installation of big-bore kits. On the downside, they don't transfer heat as well as they might, but for most of us that's a minor concern.

Plated cylinders are lighter, cool a bit better and are more resistant to wear than the sleeve type. Unfortunately, they can't be repaired without very specialized equipment and are slightly more expensive to manufacture. For the most part, they're found only on bikes that place a premium on performance, such as hard-core sportbikes, pure race motorcycles and cutting-edge, performance-oriented cruisers like the Suzuki Boulevard M109R.

As a rule, most motorcycle engines use removable cylinders that are fastened to the crankcase with studs and bolts, just as they have been since the early 1900s. It works, but makes for a flexible crankcase assembly and a ready-made path for leaks. A better idea would be casting the cylinder "in-block"-meaning that the upper crankcase half and the cylinders are made in one piece. Casting in-block makes for a rigid, leak-free and more compact cylinder assembly and eases the installation of water-cooling passages and cam drives. Honda is a proponent of in-block construction, with the old CX 500/650 series, the Magnas and, of course, Gold Wing/Valkyries being the examples that come most readily to mind.

While there are many good reasons why manufacturers don't want to adapt this method (primarily cost and complication), I can't help but think that somewhere down the road we'll be seeing lots more of them

Rings
Piston rings are used to create a gas-tight seal between the cylinder and the piston to assist in keeping the piston cool (about one third of the piston's heat is transferred through the rings to the cylinder wall) and to control cylinder wall lubrication.

Common practice is to use two compression rings, locating them as close as possible to the top of the piston to seal the combustion chamber, and one oil control ring positioned just below them to prevent lubricating oil from migrating into the combustion chamber. The rings are split to ease assembly and to allow for thermal expansion. Like the piston, they take a real beating, so they're normally made of a hard yet elastic material like ductile cast iron or molybdenum steel alloy. To enhance longevity, rings are often plated with chromium, nitrided or, in some cases, wear a ceramic coating.

Modern rings are incredibly well made and durable. When I began riding, rings lasted anywhere from 10,000 to maybe 30,000 miles before they needed replacement, and many riders did the job on their own beneath the shade of the nearest tree. Nowadays, they'll last anywhere from 100K to 200K, and I'd bet the majority of you have never even held one in your hand. Progress is a wonderful thing.

Cylinder Head
Engines are a lot like people in that they breathe through their heads. At times they're also leaky, cantankerous and obstinate, which makes them a lot like me, but I digress.

Cylinder heads have three main components: the intake port, which allows fresh mixture to flow into the engine; the exhaust port, which is where it exits; and the combustion chamber, which is the recessed area machined into the head where ignition and combustion take place (although there's one design, called a Heron Head, that locates the combustion chamber in the piston crown). Because the head controls flow and combustion it's where the bulk of an engine's torque and horsepower are created, so engineers and tuners go to great lengths to get the design just right.

Camshaft
A camshaft is defined as "a rotating body with an eccentric protuberance, which, as it moves, imparts a linear or angular movement of cyclic nature to some other component of a machine." Huh? How about we just say the camshaft, or cam for short, is a shaft that has ramps on it that open and close the valves at the proper time as it rotates.

Cam location varies according to engine design. Pushrod engines, like the Yamaha XV1700 Road Star and Harley-Davidson FLs and XLs, locate their cams in the crankcase adjacent to the crankshaft and operate the valves through pushrods and rocker arms. Single-overhead-cam engines, like those used in the Victory Kingpin and Honda VTX1300, position their cams in the head, directly between the intake and exhaust valves. The hot rod Suzuki M109 uses a double-overhead-cam engine (that's four cams total, two per cylinder), with each cam being positioned directly over the valves it operates, as does the Yamaha V-Max. It's a complicated way to go, but the added performance makes it worth the trouble.

Because the valves are only open during two of the four strokes, the camshaft is always driven by the crankshaft at exactly half the engine's rpm, regardless of location, design or the number of cams.

Valve Train
The valve train transfers the cam's actions to the valves; its design varies according to cam location and normally encompasses several components.

In a pushrod engine, these include valve tappets, which run directly against the cam and pushrods, which transfer motion from the tappet to the rocker arms. And, of course, the rocker arms, which transfer motion from the pushrod to the valves. Single-overhead-cam mills also use rocker arms to operate the valves, while double-overhead-cam engines generally run their cams either directly against the valves, through an interposed shim or by using a short rocker arm.

Critics of the pushrod engine are quick to condemn the admittedly dated design, complaining that the system is complicated, heavy and flex-prone, all of which limits performance. While they have a point, I'd point out that NASCAR and the NHRA boys build some pretty powerful pushrod engines and that Yamaha and HD twins are no slouches, either.

The current trend is to fit any piece that bears directly on the camshaft (for instance, the tappets in a pushrod motor or the rocker arms in an OHC design) with a ball bearing to reduce friction. Since the end result is less wear and more performance, I'm all for it.

Making Noise
So now that we have some idea of what everything does on its own, let's see what happens when they act in concert.

Technically, what we're looking at is called the four-stroke-cycle engine, not because it's installed into a motorcycle but because it takes four strokes of the piston (two up, two down) to create one power-producing cycle. For the sake of brevity, we're going to assume that valve and ignition timing events begin and end at top dead center and bottom dead center; in real life, an engine set up that way wouldn't make much power, but it does simplify the explanation.

Intake Stroke
The intake stroke starts with the piston at the top of the cylinder, which is called top dead center position, or TDC for short. As the piston descends toward