The Milepost (800/726-4707) is the bible of the Alaska Highway. Even though it's a weighty and unwieldy package, and the complex format makes you feel as if you need a secret decoder ring in order to extract information, it is an essential reference source. The bulk of the annually published book is a mile-by-mile sightseeing guide setup to keep the RVers occupied. And frankly, it would be dead weight for motorcyclists if it didn't have so many gems buried in its depths. Purchase and master the usage of this book in advance, even if it is last-year's edition. Updated editions aren't readily available until the touring season is already underway.
July and August are peak months for traveling the Highway, although we didn't find the road or accommodations overwhelmed even at the center of that window. Hotels and motels in Alaska proper are at more of a premium due to the additional marine and air travel and are therefore pricier. We recommend utilizing Let's Go: Alaska & The Pacific Northwest (St. Martin's Press, 212/674-5151; www.letsgo.com) for planning this portion of the trip. It's loaded with information and the format is handy.
There are a few other books you'll encounter that are pertinent to the experience. Gregory Frazier's Alaska by Motorcycle (Whitehorse Press, 800/531-1133) is an enticing read since it's actually about bike travel. Unfortunately the information is a bit out-of-date. The Alaska Highway (Fulcrum Publishing, 800/992-2908) is a helpful guide to routing and mileages, and despite being published in 1993, it gives a pretty accurate description of existing highway conditions and cautions. Elvidge's favorite book about the Highway itself (she bought seven on our trip) is Alaska or Bust published by the University of Alaska (907) 474-7505. It's a very readable and colorful account of the Highway's history and the effect of the road on the isolated region. We favored "International Travel Maps," from ITMB, on the trip because they're easy to read as well as remarkably detailed and accurate. You can find them at your local map store, or call California Map Service at (925) 284-8804.
Since the climate, even in summer, is very inconsistent, you need to bring the whole range of gear. (The one thing you don't have to worry about is extreme heat. Alaska hasn't seen 100 degrees since June 27, 1915.) You'll definitely want more substantial garb than you might wear to your local bike night. We met a lot of riders, and we can't remember a single one wearing leather -- synthetic Cordura with built-in armor was the standard. Practically the entire Aerostich (800/222-1994) line was represented on our trip with the Darien jacket and both the one- and two-piece Roadcrafters worn by Chalmers, Elvidge and Rainey. Chalmers also wore Tour Master (800/455-2552) Cortech pants. Brasfield set his own course with his Roadgear (800/854-4327) waterproof Euro-Tec jacket and pants. If your suit isn't waterproof you'll spend a lot of time getting in and out of your rainsuit, so make sure it's a good one. We brought Harley-Davidson Motorclothes' (800/LUV-2RIDE) electric jacket liners and gloves but never had to plug them in. Regardless, we wouldn't leave home without the option, since temperatures can plummet below freezing in the Yukon and Alaska even in midsummer. Average daytime temperatures during the season range from 40 to 70 degrees.
Something else that is essential to pack, although you may not need or choose to use it, is basic camping gear. Keep in mind much of the ground in northern Canada and Alaska is permanently frozen, and even on a warm night it can radiate a dangerous chill. If you don't have one, invest in a high-end insulated pad to go under your sleeping bag.
Bears on the Alaska Highway are abundant and all breeds are aggressive when it comes to snacks. If you have food onboard stow it where it can't be reached (like strung 10 feet off the ground between two trees) and never keep it on or near your person. Lastly, you'll want to bring a tent that completely seals out the relentless bug population.
We'd heard DEET, in its highest available strength, was the only chemical that would effectively repel the vigorous mosquitoes thriving in the area, so we stocked up on the oily stuff before leaving town. Luckily we also brought along less caustic repellent, which we tried first. We'll use the full-strength DEET next time we have to strip paint. Solutions using less than 10 percent of the toxic juice, such as OFF! Deep Woods worked well enough, and even natural citronella products kept the buggers at bay.
The mosquitoes really are hell on the Alaska Highway, and even though we were pretty vigilant with the repellent we still got bitten. One thing we hadn't thought to bring was itch-relief ointment, and there aren't many drugstores on the way. Although we stocked up on high-strength hydrocortisone, the best stuff we found was Benadryl Cream, which uses two percent hydrochloride instead.
It's a good idea to bring an extensive first-aid kit with you since emergency medical assistance is scarce. The availability of cellular service is extremely infrequent so if you have an accident or witness one, the best thing to do is send someone on to the next town to make the emergency call. Call boxes are placed very sporadically once you reach Alaska. The Emergency Medical Services Council (907/562-6449) in that area publishes a pamphlet, "Help Along the Way," which you can pick up at local businesses and tourist-information centers.
There are also numbers you can call for 24-hour road-condition reports. In British Columbia dial (800) 550-4997 or (900) 565-4997 for province-wide information provided for 75 cents per minute using your credit card. In the Yukon you can get the information free (if you're calling from there) at (877) 456-7623 or make the toll call to (867) 456-7623; once in Alaska use toll-free (800) 478-7675, or from outside the state (907) 273-6037.
We strongly recommend buying a Ventura (800/688-6439) Light Guard headlight protector -- or at the bare minimum cover your bike's lens and blinkers with clear tape -- since flying gravel is prevalent on the Alaska Highway. These rock fragments smart when they smack against your knees, so consider protecting your lower legs too.
The road also gives forth lots of sludge and dust, so bring along windshield/visor cleaner and plenty of rags. You'll want to carry a full set of tools for your bike plus at least one tire-repair kit. See "The Magic Bag" in our December 1998 issue for the ideal assortment of odds and ends. We augmented the bag with a Progressive Suspension (760/948-4012) mini pump with a gauge for suspension adjustment and a TRK-2 tire-repair kit for each bike. Although the Electra Glide arrived with a Harley accessory tool kit, we would've been stranded when the exhaust system broke if we hadn't carried a CruzTools (831/439-8340) kit, which contained the only baling wire in a 50-mile radius. If you're using electronic equipment buy extra batteries in the "lower 48," including a back-up for your camera. Commodities like batteries and film are hard to come by on the road north, and will cost you plenty.
Once you reach Alaska, goods and services are abundant, allowing you to relax and exhale after the long, exciting ride.
Anchorage is a particularly wonderful city and a great vacation spot on its own. You can use it as home base and easily venture down the chillingly beautiful coastline to Seward and Homer and maybe even sneak in a boat tour of the glaciers or Kodiak Island. We went on a great loop from Anchorage to Fairbanks and back via the Denali National Park. You have to take a bus into the actual park, so we decided to view it from a distance by crossing the Denali Highway. This is a 136-mile unpaved road that's superbly scenic, but not for the weak of heart. There are many beautiful unpaved roads in Alaska and the toll will be taken directly from your machine.
There are three key things to remember when you're touring Alaska: Eat as much salmon as physically possible; refrain from buying too many souvenirs; and always relinquish the right-of-way to large game animals. Oh, and don't stop too long to dream. We met many long-time residents who were once just traveling through, too.