Mention South Carolina to most any rider and you're likely to hear a colorful anecdote about a long weekend at Myrtle Beach Bike Week. But there are far richer sights to experience in this part of the country, if you know where to look. I'm talking about the Low Country. Depending on whom you ask, the Low Country generally encompasses the coastal plains from Charleston to Savannah, from the Atlantic coast 50 miles inland. This part of the southeastern US is referred to as 'low' because the area is mostly near or below sea level; the marshlands and waterways that give it a distinct flavor and natural beauty were once known for agricultural bounty and prestige. Today the region is renowned for its historic communities, and, yes-unique scenery.
Unlike other southeastern coastal areas, where days in the saddle are often spent droning along roads that are flat, straight and long, the riding here is a combination of laid back, entertaining, and visually interesting. Long sections of uncrowded rural highways and gently curving back roads roll over both small rivers and major waterways, and as you approach the coast, the lanes become lined with age-old ficus trees carrying Spanish moss that overhangs the road, with a backdrop of undeveloped savannahs and marshland stretching all the way to the horizon.
A family gathering on Hilton Head Island afforded me the opportunity to ride through the area for the first time in over a decade. From Atlanta, the quickest ways in are I-75, I-16 and I-95, but with less traveled rural roads and highways on the map as plentiful as spaghetti in an Italian restaurant, there was no question that the backcountry route was the way to go.
Taking I-20 east from Atlanta for the first part of the ride allowed me to sample some of the better roads while keeping travel time to the Low Country to a leisurely couple of hours. South of Augusta, SC125 through the Savannah River nuclear facility leads to two southeastern routes heading toward Hilton Head and Savannah-the more direct Highway 278, or the more leisurely SR3. With SR3 featuring a more subtle transition of scenery, from the rolling Appalachian foothills of eastern Georgia to the marshland environment of coastal South Carolina, of course I opted for the scenic route.
This portion of SR3 winds through a number of small towns, but periodically checking a map or programming a GPS with a specific route is a good idea when traveling in this area, as roads often take an unexpected turn along the way, which are not often well marked. SR3 ends at Highway 278 (also called Gray's Highway), which eventually takes you to Hilton Head Island. Detouring off 278 onto SR 462 takes you along the marshlands of the Coosaw River, along what's called the Coosaw Scenic Drive. This eventually connects to SR170 and back to 278, with population and traffic increasing as you approach town. That evening, I arrived at the Hilton Head beach house where my family would be staying the weekend.
The next day I woke early to watch the sunrise while enjoying my coffee. It was already apparent that it would be a perfect day, with the combination of unseasonably warm October temperatures (mid 80s) and clear blue skies that had blessed the area for the last few days continuing. I had planned a low country ride to Beaufort and would get an early start
From the beach house, I rode west on 278 toward the mainland until I spotted the small sign at the right turn of SR 170. It is also called the Okatie Highway, and it's a gem of a (mostly) four-lane highway heading toward Beaufort. The road is almost completely elevated over low marshlands and open waterways. Exiting 278, traffic decreases and field of view increases, and on a perfect Indian summer day it's difficult to beat the riding here. Along the way I passed stilted houses and marinas, old fishing boats, marshes and open savannah. State parks and protected areas are numerous, as are short fishing roads that run to the shoreline next to bridges spanning the waterways, allowing for quick stops for views at the water's edge as well as an opportunity to absorb the beauty of it all.
That's the attraction of riding this area. The mostly sea-level topography doesn't allow for easy development, and kudos to the local governments for not trying. Elevated dry land is scarce, and it seems likely that this highway was built to shorten travel time between Hilton Head Island and Beaufort, as it's the only road that directly connects them. The end result is a nicely designed and maintained highway that puts you right in the middle of the natural surroundings without ruining them, as well as giving you the perfect platform for viewing and appreciating what you're riding through.