After slipping through Missouri's own big arch I headed slightly off course to Merrimac Caverns and the Riverside Reptile Ranch in Missouri. The reptile wranglers invited me to dinner and let me stay the night. At first I was worried I might end up being alligator chow, but after a few drinks I felt right at home with the largest collection of snakes in the state. When I started to molt I bolted for the lucky 13.
That would be in Kansas: Somehow this state got the shaft and ended up with only 13 miles of the deuce 6. Plenty is packed into this short stretch, though: old-timey store fronts, the Eisler Bros. Old Riverton Store and the real tow truck that inspired the character Tow Mater in the movie Cars.
Oklahoma is the true birthplace of Route 66, and the road here is easily navigable, running next to the interstate most of the way. Arcadia has plenty of attractions to check out like the Red Round Barn and Route 66's newest pit stop, Pops. Pops has more than 400 kinds of bubbly beverages to choose from, and the waitresses are easy on the eyes.
But save your appetite before entering Lubbock, Texas. The Big Texan Steak Ranch offers a five-pound steak for free-if you can eat the whole thing. The wait staff wasn't even upset when I puked; I guess they get vomiters all the time. After the stomach torture I settled into a theme room at the Steak Ranch, and the next morning I found out where Cadillacs are made-they're grown in the dirt at Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo.Everything starts to change in New Mexico as vast, open deserts, glorious mountains and tons of original architecture from 66's heyday enter the horizon. The Blue Swallow Hotel in Tumcumari isn't the name of a cheesy '70s porn flick but an original Route 66 hotel that's been standing for nearly 70 years. I also got some kicks from the national Atomic Museum in Albuquerque and the incredible Acoma Pueblo. This Native American town dates back to 1150. Incredible or not, though, watch your speed here-they ticket often. Arizona rocked my world-meteor craters, extinct volcanoes and views straight out of a Road Runner cartoon gave me the chills. Right before California is Oatman, a lovely tourist trap of a town. Just be sure you ride through slowly so you don't hit one of the local jackasses (literally).
But crossing the border into California was by far my favorite stretch of the road. At the top of the pass I stopped and looked at the vista. I pondered life. I felt really alive. And finally arriving at the Santa Monica Pier, completely free and thinking about having the time and opportunity to do all this, was perhaps even better than the dream.
ROUTE 66 RESOURCES:
How and Where to Get Your Kicks
Route 66 Tour Map
Available at the Harley-Davidson website:
madmaps.harley-davidson.com
Lou Mitchell's Restaurant and Bakery
Chicago, IL
www.loumitchellsrestaurant.com
Riverside Reptile Ranch
Stanton, MO
riversidereptileranch.org
Eisler Bros. Old Riverton store
Riverton, KS
eislerbros.com
Pops Restaurant
Arcadia, OK
pops66.com
Big Texan Steak Ranch
Amarillo, TX
bigtexan.com
Oatman, AZ Chamber of Commerce
oatmangoldroad.com
Santa Monica Pier
Santa Monica, CA
santamonicapier.com