Miller TimeAnother must-stop in the area is the Miller House. Halfway up the mountain between the visitor center and Carvers Gap, this compound includes a barn, smokehouse and old frame main house built in 1909. The whole homestead is preserved as a reminder of the way folks used to live in these parts-and it's where the Cruiser crew convened for lunch. During the summer months, local musicians and traditional storytellers visit the house to share their talents. There was a fiddler on hand to serenade us with the sweet sounds of Appalachia as we chowed down on catfish and grits-all things considered, not a bad way to spend a hot summer day.
But there's more than just local history and boutonniere fodder here; Roan Mountain State Park encompasses some 2000 acres of southern Appalachian forest, with elevations ranging from 3000 to 3700 feet, so you're virtually assured of cooler temperatures than those of the surrounding areas. Wildflowers and wildlife jam the hollows and ridges of these foothills, and should you want to spend more time tramping the trails or just need a place to flop for the night, the woods hold campgrounds, as well as 30 cabins, each complete with a front porch, kitchen, full bath and wood-burning stove. The best part? No TVs.
There are interstates leading to the park on the Tennessee side, but by coming into the High Country on a main highway, you'll miss the backroads that really define what it means to be in these mountains. Opt for the lesser-traveled, grittier paths, and you'll gain the full experience. From its inexplicable "balds" to its lush forests, Roan Mountain remains one of the most intriguing places in the southern Appalachian highlands. It's a prime riding area I'll wager I won't get sick of anytime soon.
Directions:From Knoxville, TN, and the west, the most direct route is 1-40 to I-81 to I-181 south through Johnson City. Exit Elizabethton/Roan Mountain State Park (Hwy. 67) to Hwy. 19-E south. In Roan Mountain, TN (the town), you'll hit Roan Mountain State Park. The steep drive to the top takes about 20 minutes on Hwy 143.
From Boone, NC, and the east, take Hwy 105 to Newland, NC. Take Hwy 194 North out of Newland toward Roan Mountain, TN. At Elk Park, NC, take Hwy 19E to Roan Mountain and Highway 143 into the park.