At the Kancamagus Pass (2855 feet above sea level) I pulled over and took a breather-I really had no other choice-and pondered my options. I could play it safe; turn around and head back to Conway. From there I'd pick up the interstate, which would put me on a southeasterly trajectory. The trip home would be boring, and it might be wet, but at least it'd be above the freezing mark. Or I could continue on, hoping that things might get better at the lower elevations. Like they say, God hates a coward-of course he wasn't about to find out how well a motorcycle works as a bobsled was he? So down the hill I went. As I engaged the clutch the sun made a brief appearance, the diffuse light gave everything a surreal quality that I'd have liked to share with someone, but since no one else was foolish enough to be there I couldn't.
Fortunately after a few miles things began to improve. The road became dry and although the weather remained gray, damp and chilly, at least it wasn't sticking to me. When I pulled into the ranger station that marks the western end of the Kancamagus I realized that while I may have passed over the highway, I still hadn't ridden it, certainly not in any meaningful way. Oddly enough that doesn't bother me; so far as I'm concerned it's all the more reason to go back, but I can promise you that this time I won't wait 30 years.
The Kancamagus is a wonderful ride, but it is short, so it's best to include it as part of a larger outing, or perhaps as a day trip while visiting the general area. It can also get crowded; it's a prime jumping-off spot for outdoorsmen of all types, and additionally the main route between some mighty popular vacation spots. It's also a favorite day trip for Laconia attendees who tire of the raucous Weirs Beach scene.
Excellent accommodations, ranging from quaint B&Bs to Victorian-style hotels straight out of a John Irving novel, can be found in Conway, Lincoln and the surrounding areas. If you'd prefer something a little more modern there are plenty of Motel Whatever's about, and being New England, a fair amount of ski lodges as well. Food ranges from five stars to Mickey D's and is priced accordingly. The region gets pretty crowded during the summer, especially in the Lakes Region and around any of the tourist attractions like Mt. Washington and the outlet store areas in the Conways, so expect some traffic delays should you decide you'd rather be a tourist as opposed to a traveler. Lastly, bring plenty of warm clothes-even at the height of the summer the highway and the surrounding mountains can get plenty chilly, especially during the early morning and late evening hours, and in the fall the weather can be unpredictable, and at times, downright inhospitable.