Tips For Rollin' On The Cheap
With gas prices at nose bleed heights, resurrecting that old CB350 you've left languishing in the barn since high school or picking up some old beater to flog is looking more attractive by the moment. Unfortunately old isn't always gold, be it a barn-fresh non-runner you plan on fixing up or the ubiquitous rat bike that can be had on the cheap, knowing what to look for before you commit to buying will prevent you from getting burned.
Engines
1) Should turn freely, even if it won't start. If it doesn't-pass.
2) If there's no oil (or water) in the engine find out why, it may have leaked out when the engine grenaded.
3) A compression test won't you tell everything, but it's a good start.
4) Scrapes, cracks and dents mean some serious pavement surfing occurred.
5) Any leaks? Small ones are manageable. Gushers are deal breakers.
6) If the thing sounds like a threshing machine, it may be ready to blow-pass
7) Some smoke on start up is okay, lots of it after the engine's warm means it's rebuild time.
8) Anything in current use should start, idle and run down the road reasonably well. If it doesn't-move on.
Fuel system/carbs
1) Stale fuel will need to be drained and disposed of.
2) Rusty tanks will need to be thoroughly cleaned and possibly sealed.
3) Carburetors on non-runners-expect to strip, clean and possibly rebuild.
4) Carburetors on runners-check for leaks; the rest depends on how it runs.
5) Check fuel lines and clamps; replace as needed.
6) Petcocks should operate smoothly. Replace or rebuild leakers.
Chains/sprockets
1) Shot chains are obvious, make sure to check for wear.
2) Check the sprockets for hooked teeth, physical damage.
Exhaust
1) Check mufflers for holes and rot, particularly on old two-strokes; replacements can be difficult to find should you need one.
Tires
1) Check sidewalls for cracks.
2) Check the tread depth-any wear bars showing?
3) Any cupping or flat spotting?
4) Do the tires hold pressure?
If there's the slightest question, then replace the tires and tubes before riding the thing.
Wheels (all)
1) Look for loose or broken spokes.
2) Check the wheel bearings for adjustment and condition.
Electrics
1) Batteries-a barn-found bike will probably need a new one.
2) All lights should work, lenses should be intact.
3) Switches should move freely, operate properly.
4) Wiring-look for obvious signs of damage.
5) Testing the charging system without a voltmeter is difficult. If the lights brighten when the engine is revved and the engine starts reliably with the electric starter, you can assume the charging system is probably okay.
Clutch/tranny
1) Sticking or slipping clutches mean some parts and labor are required.
2) The transmission gears should stay engaged under load and all gears should be present and accounted for. Be forewarned that gearbox problems are always expensive.
3) Check for leaks-big ones get expensive.
Frame/forks
1) Rusty or pitted fork tubes need to be replaced, as will leaking forking seals.
2) Make sure the forks move smoothly-sticking means they may be badly misaligned or bent.
3) Check the steering head bearings for dents and binding.
4) Check the swing arm and any shock linkage bushings and bearings for play.
5) Check the wheel alignment. If it's grossly out of whack something may be bent.
6) Check the rear shocks for leaks and action. Replace damaged shocks ASAP.
All The Rest
1) Frayed or damaged cables should be replaced before they snap and strand you. Look at the end nipples for signs of damage.
2) Bent levers and handlebars can be replaced with generic aftermarket items, normally at a considerable savings compared to OEM stuff. Torn seats can be recovered by your local auto upholstery guy.
3) Before purchasing anything, especially a bike that's not in current use, make sure the frame numbers jibe with the title. If they don't, then registering the thing may be impossible.