On a serious road trip, you...
On a serious road trip, you need to be prepared to take care of things yourself. A well-stocked tool kit is your first line of repair, and a tire repair kit wouldn't hurt, either. Then add a line jumper, some electrical tape or Rescue Tape, a small container full of common fasteners, fuses, crimp-on electrical connectors and a first-aid kit. Cigars optional . . .
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Unless you're like Cherney, who travels farther with less gear than any man I ever met, chances are you'll be packing a fair amount of weight, especially if you're planning to be on the road awhile. Here are a few things to consider.
First, all bikes have a sticker somewhere that lists the gross vehicle weight rating or GVWR (this can also be found in the owner's manual). The GVWR equals the weight of the bike plus the maximum weight it can carry. For example, an '03 Harley-Davidson FLHT has a GVWR of 1259 pounds. Because the bike weighs 758 pounds dry, that leaves you with a carrying capacity of 501 pounds, which seems like a lot until you run the numbers.
A gallon of gas weighs roughly 6 pounds, and the FLH holds five of them, so there's 30 pounds. I weigh 240 pounds and my wife 117, and don't forget that's in street clothes. So with a full tank and both of us on the bike we're already up to 1145.5 pounds, leaving just 113.5 pounds for cargo. That 113.5 evaporates pretty quickly once you factor in riding gear, a few changes of clothes and whatever else you've decided is absolutely necessary to have with you. Granted there's a certain fudge factor involved, but grossly exceeding the GVWR can have some very unfortunate repercussions. I should also mention that along with the GVWR you'll find the GAWR, or gross axle weight rating, listed. This rating specifies the maximum weight each axle can bear. It's a good guide to weight distribution and gives you some idea of the how the bike needs to be loaded so stability isn't adversely affected.
The second point is that all that weight loads the suspension and tires, so you'll need to make the appropriate adjustments. Your manual or the appropriate sticker on the frame should list correct tire pressures, which will at least get you in the ballpark, and you can fine-tune it from there.
If for some reason you don't have any info, the maximum allowable tire pressure is listed on the tire's sidewall. Using that as a starting point, ride the fully loaded bike a couple of miles to heat up the tires (5-6 miles should do it), then recheck the tire pressure. If it's gone up 3 pounds or so, you're pretty close to the proper pressure. If it's gone up by more than 4 pounds, the tires are underinflated. And if they haven't changed at all or the increase is less than 2 pounds, they're overinflated. Let them cool off for a few minutes and adjust accordingly.
If you're lucky enough to have some suspension adjustment other than spring preload, the manual will provide the base settings. If all you've got is a preload adjustment, go up one notch to compensate for the luggage and two notches to offset the combined weight of the passenger and luggage. Remember, though, suspension and tire-pressure settings aren't carved in stone, and some experimentation may be needed before you're satisfied.
Necessities-Road Tools
One of the great ironies of motorcycle repair is that as motorcycles have become more reliable, they've also become harder to fix. Let me explain. Back in the days when carburetors were leaky and ignition systems intermittent, they were relatively easy to troubleshoot and repair by the side of the road, which was good because you did it on a regular basis, and in an emergency you could always cobble together something that'd get you home. I once used a John Deere tractor condenser to repair my broken-down '72 Bultaco Alpina, and it was still in there when I sold the thing three years later.
Modern bikes with their EFI systems and digital electronic ignitions are nearly bulletproof, but if something does crap out it's highly doubtful you'll be able to figure out where the problem lies, let alone fix it with an old tractor part. My guess is that after about 10 minutes of cursing the motor gods you're going to be calling for a tow to the nearest shop so the thing can be plugged into a scan tool and properly diagnosed. So why bother carrying anything other than a cell phone and a credit card?
The correct answer is because no matter how reliable your bike is, things happen. It may be something as small as a mirror coming loose or a handlebar that needs a little adjustment, or it may be crash damage you have to repair so the bike can be ridden to the nearest safe port. But no matter what, you need to carry a decent tool set and few spare parts.
As far as tools go you can either live with what's supplied with the bike, roll your own or purchase a comprehensive kit off the rack. I like the last option best, so for the last few years I've been carrying a CruzTool Road Tech M3 kit in my saddlebags. While I'm loathe to shill for any particular company (especially when I'm not getting a cut of the take), I can't speak highly enough about the CruzTool kit. It's an excellent value, and you get a very wide-ranging assortment of iron that should get you out of just about any mechanical jam short of a roadside engine rebuild. To finish off your portable service department toss in a Swiss Army Knife-I like either the Tinker or Mechanic-a spare flashlight, a small first-aid kit (in case you need to work on yourself) and oh, yeah, don't forget that credit card and cell phone.
If you've installed any electrical accessories (or just like to be prepared) carrying some sort of electrical repair kit makes a lot of sense too; you never know when you'll need to lengthen a short or something.
Along with your tools you'll also need a few spares. At the very least have a roll of good electrical tape and small container filled with an assortment of nuts and bolts, fuses and a length of stiff mechanic's wire. I'd also recommend a few hose clamps in assorted sizes and maybe a turn signal and taillight bulb, which should be wrapped in foam to protect them. If you're riding a belt-driven bike I'd suggest carrying either a spare belt or one of those split emergency belts that can be installed without dismantling half the bike. And last, an away kit should always include the owner's manual (or even better, a service manual).
I'd also recommend bringing the appropriate tire repair kit. If you're rolling on tubeless tires, that's a no-brainer -a plug kit of some kind and your favorite tire pump or a six-pack of CO2 cartridges, and you're in business. But it's a little trickier if your ride has tube tires.
Here's the problem. Removing the wheel from a big touring bike without a decent lift or jack isn't a job for the fainthearted, and it's only half the battle. Once it's off you've still got to remove and replace the tube. Breaking down a tire is fairly easy when you've got the right tools and a decent spot to work, but it's problematic even for the best of us when you're wrestling the thing by the side of a busy road. In fact it's such a hassle that I only recommend doing it if you have no other option.
Should you be so unfortunate as to puncture a tube, I'd suggest you fill the SOB with an aerosol flat fix and then limp the bike to the nearest motel or shop and make the appropriate arrangements to have the tube-and if need be the tire-replaced. This is one instance when the credit card and cell phone will come in mighty handy.
So Hit the Road Already
If the foregoing seems basic, that's because it is. My feeling is that in this day and age touring by motorcycle isn't exactly a trip to the ends of the earth-at least not when you're within the confines of the 48 contiguous states. If the bike is well prepared and you've got a few common tools, a scrap of common sense and your owner's manual, you should be able to overcome 99 percent of the emergencies you'll encounter. And for the remaining 1 percent-well, that'll make a terrific story to go with all those photos you took.