Then we headed over to a Wendy's for a burger, chili, fries, a Coke and a huge vat of coffee. It was one of the most memorable meals of the ride. Hot food in a dry, warm place on a cold, rainy day is one of life's great pleasures, and you're missing the point if you don't savor it.
With pig boots on my feet and hand-warmer packets in my gloves and socks, the rest of the trip passed as comfortably as a rainy, 35-degree, three-hour ride possibly can.
Back at the hotel in New Orleans, we showered, changed into dry clothes and set out on foot down Magazine Street in search of a good meal and a cold beer.
Part of our mission that night was to check out the Mardi Gras madness on Bourbon Street, so after huge hamburgers and a couple of pints of Abita Ale, I asked the bartender about catching a cab down to the world's most infamous street party.
"Dude, good luck tonight," he said. "I've got a two-hour waiting list for cabs running now, and it's early yet."
We decided to walk toward Bourbon Street, hoping to hail a cab on the way. Walking in the rain down Magazine, a good four miles from our destination that night, Mark and I again debated if this was going to be one of those trips where nothing goes right.
After walking about a half-mile, Mark hailed a cab. The cabbie was heading to Bourbon and happy to give us a ride.
"This is it," Mark announced. "The trip is turning around for us."
Bourbon Street was hardly what I'd call paradise. The scene is perfect for those who find college frat parties heaven, but I'm long past those days. We did find a couple of great bands, however, and after a couple more cold beers, we felt maybe the trip really had begun to turn.
During the next few days, we were charmed and amazed by the people and places of New Orleans, whose shabby elegance, great food, terrific music and distinct character prompted Mark Twain to remark that you haven't seen America until you've seen New Orleans.
What we saw of the rest of Louisiana and Mississippi was mostly shrouded in rain and repairs, reminding us that travel doesn't always bring what you seek, nor do trips always go as you plan. That's travel-and life-and if you can't enjoy the unexpected discoveries of both, you're wasting your time.
And by the way, I did finally figure out how to turn on my new flashlight. Next time I get a flat on a dark, rainy night, I'll at least have that.
Provided I remember to pack it.
Louisiana and Mississippi Ride Guide
Although Katrina's effects are still evident as you travel through the South, Louisiana and Mississippi are ready for visitors. The road along the coast east of town, between Gulfport and Biloxi, is in fine shape, but the homes are still heavily damaged and only a limited number of businesses are open. As you head west and north, however, an increasing number of businesses are operating.
Rental MotorcyclesEagle Rider has a branch in New Orleans, but they were closed at press time due to damage from Katrina. The owner anticipates reopening within the next year. Check status at www.eagleriderneworleans.com.
You can also rent motorcycles in Baton Rouge at:Harley-Davidson/Buell of Baton Rouge(225) 292-9632www.harleybr.com
HotelsBooking hotels in advance is one of the most important parts of traveling in Louisiana post-Katrina. As of this spring, the hotels were full of workers and displaced residents as far north as Jackson, Mississippi. Book early and be sure to confirm your reservation.
Road ConditionsNearly all roads in Louisiana and Mississippi were open as of this spring. In the New Orleans area, the Lake Pontchartrain bridge on Hwy. 90 was out, but could easily be bypassed by taking Hwy. 10. Do bring some Fix-A-Flat, as the heavy construction going on increases the likelihood of picking up a nail or screw.Travel InformationThe Louisiana Office of Tourismfree.info@crt.state.la.us(225) 342-8100www.louisianatravel.com
Mississippi Division of Tourism Developmenttourdiv@mississippi.org(601) 359-3297(866) 733-6477www.visitmississippi.org
Routes to Ridewww.swampscooters.netMotorcycle club Web site. Lots of good information here, including good section on Louisiana back-road routes. Click "Articles" and scroll down to "Favorite Roads" by Clint Adcock.
www.milebymile.com/main/United_States/Mississippi/region_byways.htmlWeb site with list of scenic routes in Mississippi. Includes country music trail, rock 'n' roll highway, Natchez Trace Parkway and more.