A Buyer's Guide to Leather Jackets - More Than Skin Deep

Funny thing-after millions of evolutionary years, we're still protecting our skin with leather. Just as the first motorcyclists did, we wear leather jackets as our primary defense against the elements. Leather has proved to be flexible and tear-, abrasion- and wind-resistant. And, of course, it's a styling statement. But there are things you should know ahead of your shopping trip. >

Before you check out the 21 jackets assembled here, take a look at our primer on how to buy a leather jacket:

The Leather
We recommend cowhide, sheepskin and horsehide for their durability. Cowhide is so thick that it is possible to split the skin and have two or more leather hides. The outer skin is the stronger, top-grain portion of the hide. "Full grain" refers to a top grain that hasn't been altered to remove or hide any natural blemishes. Look for top-grain with a thickness between 1.1 and 1.5mm (it's not as durable when it's thinner). Sheepskin is usually soft, reasonably abrasion-resistant, thinner and lighter than cowhide. Horsehide, once quite popular, is thicker than most cowhide, has a smoother exterior surface and is highly abrasion-resistant. Horsehide is naturally quite stiff and takes awhile to break in. For any leather, look for "drum-dyed," a process that gets dye all the way through the hide and softens the skin without degrading strength. Sprayed-on surface coloring will eventually flake and make your jacket look like it's got eczema.

Construction
Fewer pieces of leather means fewer seams and a stronger jacket-single-panel backs are best. Nylon thread is preferable for strength and rot resistance. Avoid parallel stitched seams, which are more prone to failure in an impact.

Cut
Does the jacket feel good while you're wearing it in the store? That doesn't matter: Zip it up, sit down on your bike and grab the handlebars. In this position the jacket should be snug (but not tight) on your body and arms, the sleeves should amply cover your wrists and the collar shouldn't push up against your jaw.

Armor
Shoulder and elbow armor is fine, but chest and back protection is even better. (See the sidebar on page 75.)

Liners
We like a removable liner for the added versatility. Chilly? Just zip (or snap) it in and off you go. Too warm? Zip it out and toss it in your saddlebag. You'll be surprised how much warmth even a lightly insulated liner provides.

Venting
On hot days how can you be protected and not feel like a turkey in a deep fryer? The solution is zippered vents. Look for front intake and rear exhaust openings. One trick is to unzip the zippers at the ends of the sleeves for added airflow up the arms.

Storage
If you're getting a new jacket you might as well get one that has pockets where you want them. Many jackets now have inside pouches for cell phones.

Extras
Gusseting or expansion panels above the elbows or behind the shoulders make the reach to the bars more comfortable. Look for stretch panels, belts or adjustments at the waist to tailor fit-one size 40 jacket does not fit all size 40 bodies. Heavy-duty front zippers (with easily accessed pulls) are essential. We prefer collars with adjustable closures rather than snap-closed necks, which can push on your throat.

Alpinestars Octane $430 With its precurved sleeves and zippy graphics, the full-leather Octane had us thinking it was purpose-built for the dragstrip rather than a road trip. But a couple of rides proved otherwise. The key is in the labeling, apparently-Alpinestars says this is a "relaxed fit" (RF) jacket, so it was cush in any riding position. The leather fell nicely onto our torso, while the mandarin collar felt more comfortable than it looked-probably due to the stretch fabric and an adjustable closure. Perforations dot the upper chest and arms and stretch panels hide under the arms. Those stretch panels do provide comfort, and adjustable waist tabs on either side help tailor the fit. We also like the zippered sleeves with Velcro cuff closures. The soft armor in the shoulders and elbows is CE-approved, and a foam back pad comes standard. But where the Octane really scores is with its inclusion of chest protection-two inner pockets house Alpinestars' proprietary foam chest guards (sold separately). The Octane doesn't have vents, but we're still pleasantly surprised with the goods. RATINGS Comfort 4 Protection 4 Versatility 2 Overall 3.3 Notes: Great comfort and protection, and the only jacket here with chest armor. Specs Leather: 1.2-1.4mm full-grain cowhide Protection: Removable CE armor in shoulders and elbows; forearm padding; upgradable foam back pad; chest pad option Storage: 2 outer and 2 inner pockets Venting: Perforations in upper chest and arms; stretch panels under arms Liner: Zip-out thermal vest Miscellaneous: Drop back panel; attached zipper pulls; no reflectivity

Dainese Montone $1299 Dainese's Montone is really a thing of beauty, from its stylish exterior to its fortified interior. And speaking of exterior, the Montone's is sheepskin. For those of you unfamiliar with it, sheepskin is very soft, windproof and naturally water-resistant. Contrasting with the rich brown of the sheepskin body is a patterned dark-brown cowhide on the inside of the arms and the sleeve gussets. The Montone keeps the bells and whistles to a minimum: There are only three pockets, two outer and one inner, all zippered, and a Velcro-type closure at the throat. There's no skimping on quality, from the heavy-duty metal zipper with wind flap to the stitching and like-buttah sheepskin. Dainese is well known for covering many of the top MotoGP racers in its hides, and the Montone benefits from that experience, with CE-approved armor in the shoulders, elbows and down most of the forearm, and substantial padding all the way to the wrist. Not only is the armor removable, but it can be adjusted via Velcro so it's in the optimal position for your body. The inner fleece isn't wool but polyester. RATINGS Comfort 5 Protection 3 Versatility 3 Overall 3.7 Notes: The Dainese isn't just a quality jacket but a profound style statement. Specs Leather: 1.0mm sheepskin Protection: CE-approved armor at shoulders and elbows/forearms Storage: 2 waist pockets; 1 inside pocket Venting: None Liner: Polyester fleece Miscellaneous: Ergonomic cut; no reflectivity

Fieldsheer Renegade Leather Jacket $330-$380 Let's face it: On the inside you are a rock star. Now everyone else will know it when you wear Fieldsheer's new Renegade Leather Jacket. With its studded collar and sleeves and embroidery front and back, you will stand out. A classic "Brando-style" jacket, the Renegade uses 1.1-1.3mm drum-dyed cowhide, so it's a substantial piece of apparel. Backing that up is removable memory-foam armor in the shoulders, elbows and back. A heavy-duty metal zipper keeps it all closed, and the double-breasted style provides a wide wind flap. There's also a full zip-in liner for warmth. If your natural heat is too much, just open the zippered vents in the sleeves and back. It also has vent holes under the arms, and the zippered sleeve ends are backed by mesh to provide adjustable venting. An adjustable waist belt and a snap-loop in back fix the jacket to your pants so it doesn't ride up. There are three outside pockets and two inside. The jacket "stands up" a bit when you're in the riding position, but the gusseted sleeves offer a comfortable reach to the handlebars. RATINGS Comfort 3 Protection 3 Versatility 3 Overall 3 Notes: Rock-star styling with plenty of useful features for riding. Specs Leather: 1.1-1.3mm drum-dyed cowhideProtection: Memory foam in shoulders, elbows and back Storage: 2 waist pockets; 1 key pocket; 2 inside pockets; 2 liner pockets Venting: Vents on upper and lower arms and back Liner: Full polyester liner Miscellaneous: Drop-down, single-panel back; no reflectivity