When shopping for a textile garment, pay attention to the denier rating. (In pure terms, one denier is equal to one gram per 9000 meters of material weight.) The higher the denier rating, the heavier the strands that make up the fabric. This does not mean that a 500-denier fabric cannot be as dense as a 1000-denier fabric; there is a separate specification, called pick, that denotes how many of the fibers are woven into a given area. Various manufacturers use wildly differing specifications, so one suit made from 1000-denier Cordura might feel stiff (boardy) while another made from ostensibly the same material might feel light and airy. The only way to know is to touch the garment.
"Textiles have advantages for those who ride a lot," Goldfine says. "They're washable, lighter, tend to be cooler...all a big deal for the daily rider." Implicit in that argument is the textile's versatility. Fabric suits and pants span the range from cold-weather items to hot-season, blow-the-wind-through gear, forming what Goldfine calls a "quiver of different arrows" for various riding conditions.
Modern textiles are often available with a Gore-Tex layer or membrane. Developed by W. L. Gore & Associates, Gore-Tex is a semipermeable membrane whose holes are too small to allow rainwater through but large enough to permit water vapor-heat, perspiration-to be released. Gore is extremely fussy about how suits and jackets go together, and the pieces must be genuinely waterproof before the garment is allowed to wear the Gore-Tex label. As a result, some design elements might seem a bit strange. For example, external pockets usually have floating internal liners because stitching them down would penetrate the Gore layer and cause leaks. It's also true that, while still breathable, a Gore-Tex suit is not generally as comfortable in warm weather as a standard textile garment. You can't have everything.
Textiles have become incredibly durable. Says Goldfine, "Everyone comes to the conclusion that the kit lasts longer than the motorcycle. I know plenty of people who have had the same gear through three or more motorcycles."
When considering textile gear, perform the same inspections you would with a leather jacket. Seams should be straight and tight, and the stitching should be reinforced in high-stress and impact areas. Consider carefully how you'll use the gear-textiles tend to be more tightly focused on certain riding styles or weather conditions.
While on the subject of textiles, can we make a comment about riding in jeans? Yep, we all do it from time to time, but it's just not a good idea. Traditional denim has very poor abrasion-resistance, and it can wear through to precious skin in surprisingly slow crashes. If you can't be seen in leather or textile pants, at least wear reinforced riding pants such as Draggin' Jeans.
Leather Versus Textiles: The Pros and ConsLet's examine a few areas where we can discern true practical differences between leather and textile garments.
Abrasion resistance. This is the big one for leather lovers, and it is, on a theoretical basis, a slam dunk for cowhide. Simply put, leather is better at going down the road; in a crash, it will abrade slowly and predictably without gaining a lot of heat. (That's not to say it doesn't get hot, but it is not inherently flammable.) Textiles are at a theoretical disadvantage. At some point-and that point depends on myriad variables, including material strength, garment construction, rider size and weight, the abrasiveness of the, er, crash surface and, most importantly, the speed of the get-off-the leather will protect you better in a sliding crash. That's theory, but how about reality? At street speeds, a textile garment is likely to do just as good a job as leather. Why? Because low-speed crashes usually don't involve a lot of sliding, so the textile garment is less likely to drag along the ground long enough to heat up and melt. (No, the textile will not catch fire, but the nylon threads will melt under extreme conditions.)